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D17 serries 1 and D15 serries 1 question

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Dan73 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dan73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: D17 serries 1 and D15 serries 1 question
    Posted: 15 Feb 2026 at 12:41pm
I have a D17 serries 1 with power steering. I broke the front casting where the pin that holds the front end on fits. Not to suprised it was worn badly and I put my loader from the D15 on the D17 last summer when the D15 had a blown motor.
My question is the D15 serries 1 has a good front counter weight i know it is tight I had it sleeved a decade ago when I rebuilt the tractor. I know I can not swap the entire counter weight but can I split the weight and swap just the bottom part with the broken casting? I know the D17 weight is taller the bolt spacing on the frame rails makes that clear. I am just hoping maybe the bottom section of the casting is the same part? Both tractors are pretty much stuck in the snow at the moment not real easy to work pn but I am trying to come up with a plan or figure out if I need to be looking for a parts tractor.
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Steve A View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 hours 33 minutes ago at 4:53pm
I don't have a definite answer, but from what I'm seeing in the parts books the numbers are the same. If it were me, I'd take measurements and try it. That part is simple enough to change, took about 30 min to take it out and put it back. My D17 is worn in a similar fashion--not broken though-- and I fabbed a steel block and welded it in with nickle rod to correct it. Will probably wind up at a machine shop in the future or hunting for used one with less wear.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dan73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 hours 28 minutes ago at 4:58pm
Thanks Steve. I didn't think to try and find it in the parts book. I was thinking it is an assembly like some modern parts books I guess.
They definitely look identical from what I can measure with then on the tractors. I will have to get the two tractors where I can access them to get the parts off. Winter time is hard without a shop.
I will post here when I get it sorted out and let everyone know.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 hours 17 minutes ago at 5:09pm
The "Achilles heel" of that era of axle setup. You would have thought they would have straddled them. A lot of brands did it that way though.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 9 hours 53 minutes ago at 6:33pm
i dont know exactly what you have.. but ALLIS used a lot of "CAST STEEL" parts and not "CAST IRON".... You can easily weld a broken CAST STEEL PART and hand grind as needed... You just need to taper the crack on both sides to a VEE shape.. i clamp the parts together with  vice grips / clamps / strap to hold in place.. Warm things up in the general area to  150- 200 degrees with a propane torch  or xxx..... Really you just dont want the parts to be 20-30 degrees... extra heat is GOOD, but high heat is not needed... I weld everything up with 7018 low hydrogen rod.. works great.

If your not much of a welder, talk to a local guy.... Cast iron when you grind it gives off orange  mini sparks.....  CAST STEEL grinds just like steel... big red sparks.... if its  Cast STEEL, it will weld up nice..
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 9 hours 38 minutes ago at 6:48pm
I know for a fact that a D-15 series 2 "front support" bolts right up to a D-17 chassis and side frames. Nothing is compromised, except the power steering ram area is different. So as far as your wide front end pivot hole casting, I don't know why a series 1 D-15 says it is different. Maybe the four attaching bolt holes are 1/2" diameter instead of 5/8" diameter ??
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55allis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 55allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 7 hours 59 minutes ago at 8:27pm
Funny, I just broke my series 3 bolster a couple weeks ago. Have never even drove it yet…
Mine was cracked where the pin is and I was pulling it out of the way when it broke.
Currently it’s sitting in the local welding shop…
1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD, 1963 A-C D17 series 3, several Allis garden tractors
     
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dan73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 7 hours 15 minutes ago at 9:11pm
Dr Allis the side frames on the D17 serries 1 first year of production I have are about 2 inches taller then the side rails on the D15 serries 1 also first year of production. I remembered the side raises where not the same so I measured the distance between the bolts. However the bottom section of the counter weight does look identical while they are both mounted on the machines. I have had the weights off before and noticed that they seem to be the same casting on the bottom. I will have to get both apart to see for sure.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dan73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 7 hours 10 minutes ago at 9:16pm
55allis I would make sure the pin fits tight before you put it back together. I had the one on my d15 bored out and sleeved then welded a new pin on the axle about 2012. Which is why I want to swap parts. But both of mine where worn and the front pin was hammering the casting. I am a little nervous about a weld repair with a loader on the tractor. If it was just a field tractor I would worry less but I use it hard with the loader.

Edited by Dan73 - 6 hours 54 minutes ago at 9:32pm
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Dan73 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dan73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 6 hours 55 minutes ago at 9:31pm
Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:

i dont know exactly what you have.. but ALLIS used a lot of "CAST STEEL" parts and not "CAST IRON".... You can easily weld a broken CAST STEEL PART and hand grind as needed...


Thanks I didn't know the difference. I will definitely try that with the damaged one it would be worth saving the part even if i don't use it at the moment. Kind of hard to find parts like that from 1957...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 6 hours 33 minutes ago at 9:53pm
GOOGLE.......

Cast steel is a strong, ductile, and weldable iron-carbon alloy (
less than 2% carbon) ideal for high-stress, impact-resistant applications like machinery and structural components. Conversely, cast iron (
 greater than 2% carbon) is brittle, harder, and has excellent castability and heat retention, making it suitable for engine blocks and cookware. 


Edited by steve(ill) - 6 hours 32 minutes ago at 9:54pm
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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