D17 exhaust problem and fix, I hope.

I forgot how to post here, LOL. Anyway, my D17 has leaked rain water since I put a new manifold and muffler on it when I bought it with a cracked manifold. So, I tried fixing it every year for the last three years. Always pukes water out the exhaust after it rains. Heavy rains it almost hydraulic locks the engine. Here is how I fixed it...

Edited by OldSchoolRecovery - 31 Oct 2023 at 5:08pm

1942 Farmall H
1940 Allis B
1944 Allis B
1945 2N
1947 8N
1948 8N
1951 8N
1949 JD M
1951 JD A
1951 JD AW
1951 WD
1952 Allis D Grader
1957 D14
1958 D17
1961 Case 440L
1963 IH Lo Cub<

tried to buy a new muffler, but seams tractor supply handles everything but AC... So, on with the old one. Nothing really wrong with it anyway.

Edited by OldSchoolRecovery - 31 Oct 2023 at 5:50pm

1942 Farmall H
1940 Allis B
1944 Allis B
1945 2N
1947 8N
1948 8N
1951 8N
1949 JD M
1951 JD A
1951 JD AW
1951 WD
1952 Allis D Grader
1957 D14
1958 D17
1961 Case 440L
1963 IH Lo Cub<

DrAllis wrote:

My experience has been, the deeper the threads the better and after several heat/cool cylces the pipe can be tightened up a little bit more when cold. If the tractor pulls a plow the loctite will be gone in 10 minutes.

It's threaded all the way through. The picture with it threaded in is in by just a couple threads. I know what you mean regards the loctite/permatex. I tried the Ultra copper on the old setup, which was high temp, and it went away right away. This red high heat is new, or at least new to me. It says 750 degrees, whereas the ultra copper is 700. Ha...

Anything is better than what it was.. Just sayin..

Thanks!

1942 Farmall H
1940 Allis B
1944 Allis B
1945 2N
1947 8N
1948 8N
1951 8N
1949 JD M
1951 JD A
1951 JD AW
1951 WD
1952 Allis D Grader
1957 D14
1958 D17
1961 Case 440L
1963 IH Lo Cub<

Interesting air filter by the carb. How does the tractor run with that on?

Not all of us can afford one of those 1 1/2" ?? pipe taps !! I have to borrow one.

i got ya all beati go all the way to 2inch pipe thread tap . thats the best fix and a piece of schedule 80 pipe will last longer than the manifold i do that same thing to all here on tractors

DrAllis wrote:

Not all of us can afford one of those 1 1/2" ?? pipe taps !! I have to borrow one.

Doc., I can hook you up. Next time we get to a similar destination I will bring you one. Just consider it a thank-you for the knowledge you spread around here.

Old school, Nice shop!

As for the RAD cleaner, I knew a fellow that used a smaller tractor for a 2 acre garden and had his engine rebuilt twice in 3 years. He used a filter similar to yours and it would start smoking and using oil. After the second rebuild, the mechanic put an original type air cleaner assembly back on the fellows tractor. Never had anymore engine issues after that.

Did you check the top seam around the exhaust pipe to see it was still tight? Had an engine get seized because of not observing the small crack that had developed at the joint .

Took a 170 oval muffler off yesterday to fix the rusted clamp and discovered on the bottom side it had holes rusted through and top side had a small hole developing that I didn't see before. It was a Stanley muffler about 14 years old. Disapprove

He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."

DSeries4 wrote:

All of that work could have been avoided if you had the correct muffler. They were designed not to let water enter the manifold.

Same with your fuel filter. Clean out your tank, problem solved.

Just my 2 cents.

Not my first rodeo. Tank is clean, but when it's 20 below zero, I ain't cleaning out a setiment bowl out on the side of the road. Spin on and off a new filter. 2 minutes, with gloves. I put them on all my tractors when the time comes. Your truck or car you drive daily don't have a setiment bowl for a reason. As far as the muffler. It's a correct muffler and manifold. Or as I should say, that is what they sell for them now. Can't order one from Allis from 1958. And, it is not designed to keep water out. There is a direct path for the water if the connecting tube between it and the manifold isn't tight. Maybe the manifold hole is bored to big, but a new manifold (this was a new manifold 3 years ago) would have worked, but there goes another 200 dollars on a maybe. I would agree with you if the connecting pipe went OVER the exhaust manifold and not IN it. You can see the water path in the picture of the muffler and pipe. I have two other Allis's that don't let rain water in. This one just dose and I am tired of chaning oil. Now, hopefully it won't. The tractor stays outside all winter and starts and runs. I have 9 or eleven tractors and I think I have only one in its original configuration and still a 6-volt. It will remain that way until it dosen't. I don't restore, I use and need it to work. Just sayin..

1942 Farmall H
1940 Allis B
1944 Allis B
1945 2N
1947 8N
1948 8N
1951 8N
1949 JD M
1951 JD A
1951 JD AW
1951 WD
1952 Allis D Grader
1957 D14
1958 D17
1961 Case 440L
1963 IH Lo Cub<

Don't happen to have 2 3/8" do ya ?? Smile

Just went out to measure my IH T6 (same engine/manifold as Farmall M, etc) manifold as the threads are messed up. The reproduction manifold I got doesn't sound as good as the original.

IBWD MIke wrote:

Gary, I'm going to guess that is a two inch pipe tap you need. I think I have one here and am actually going to use it later today, on a 450 manifold. I should run downstairs and check my tap supply.

Yes, that would be correct. OD of 2" pipe roughly 2⅜.

OldSchoolRecovery wrote:

DSeries4 wrote:

All of that work could have been avoided if you had the correct muffler. They were designed not to let water enter the manifold.

Same with your fuel filter. Clean out your tank, problem solved.

Just my 2 cents.

Not my first rodeo. Tank is clean, but when it's 20 below zero, I ain't cleaning out a setiment bowl out on the side of the road. Spin on and off a new filter. 2 minutes, with gloves. I put them on all my tractors when the time comes. Your truck or car you drive daily don't have a setiment bowl for a reason. As far as the muffler. It's a correct muffler and manifold. Or as I should say, that is what they sell for them now. Can't order one from Allis from 1958. And, it is not designed to keep water out. There is a direct path for the water if the connecting tube between it and the manifold isn't tight. Maybe the manifold hole is bored to big, but a new manifold (this was a new manifold 3 years ago) would have worked, but there goes another 200 dollars on a maybe. I would agree with you if the connecting pipe went OVER the exhaust manifold and not IN it. You can see the water path in the picture of the muffler and pipe. I have two other Allis's that don't let rain water in. This one just dose and I am tired of chaning oil. Now, hopefully it won't. The tractor stays outside all winter and starts and runs. I have 9 or eleven tractors and I think I have only one in its original configuration and still a 6-volt. It will remain that way until it dosen't. I don't restore, I use and need it to work. Just sayin..

Not my first rodeo either. If you are having to clean out a sediment bowl at the side of a road in -20 weather, you either have crud in your tank or you have contaminated fuel. I have clean tanks, good fuel and sediment bowls on all my tractors - never a problem any time of year.

Secondly, that is not a correct muffler because it allows water to run down the outside and right into the manifold. The correct original style muffler (available through many vendors here) fits over top of the manifold so as water runs down the outside, it will drip off the bottom lip of the muffler and land on the outside of the manifold (not inside) as you can see here...

'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080

That is not an OEM set up. That's an aftermarket wanna be...can be made to work but only sorta. AC or AGCO never sold anything like that.

All WD45 gassers OEM had the top picture type. Most will-fits were like the lower picture and they were poor in the water entrance issue AND just being secure, bouncing around in a rough moldboard plowed field trying to disc in 3rd gear.

My WD45 has the original sediment bowl from Allis and the correct Nelson muffler that I bought 20 years ago from a retired Allis dealer in our area. Same as the picture that Myron (Dseries4) posted. Starts and runs any day of the year. Tractor did a lot of work in its day. Never a problem with the sediment bowl. I still drain it maybe once a year or so.

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