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d12 crankshaft in c engine bock ?
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HudCo View Drop Down
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Joined: 29 Jan 2013
Location: Plymouth Utah
Points: 3552 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HudCo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: d12 crankshaft in c engine bock ?
    Posted: 05 Oct 2024 at 8:23pm
willthe crank and rods for a d 10 0r d12 work in a 49 c engine ?
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PaulB View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Rocky Ridge Md
Points: 4753 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Oct 2024 at 8:05am
The short answer is: Yes, it can be done.
  However there are many differences that make it more practical to just send your BE/CE crank to have it stroked. I've been increasing the power output of the BE/CE blocks since the early 80s and have more experience pulling a little tractors than probably any other person still living. I thought it would be an easy way to stroke a BE/CE just buy using a 138/149/160 crank and grinding the mains down to fit. First off the BE/CE spray oils the rod bearings and the 138/149/160 use pressure oiling to the rods and when you grind the mains down oil holes will open up in unwanted places. The BE/CE has its thrust main at the front and the 138/149/160 has it at the rear. 
  While you're getting the BE/CE crank stroked, tell them to weld in the seal groove at the front and rear of the crank and then you can use the small D rear seal which is a lip seal instead of a felt seal. The best part is, you can get the crank back to STD/STD and bearing will be easy to get.
  If your club isn't picky about having an original block just put on a Small D engine. There are a few minor things that don't quite bolt in, but nothing that can't be worked out. Email me if you run into any snags.
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Joined: 29 Jan 2013
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Points: 3552 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HudCo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Oct 2024 at 9:31am
how well will the d series engine bolt in to the c  will the sheet metal still fit right  
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Points: 4753 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Oct 2024 at 6:15pm
Bolts right up to the bellhousing, use the C flywheel and clutch.  At the front of the engine some of the later small D engines used 5/8" bolts and would need steep studs to bolt on the front steering bolster. Depending on if you use a D10/12 manifold or a D14/15 one to whether the exhaust and air cleaner will line up with the holes in the hood. The thermostat housing is different and you'll need to use a D10/12 top hose and do something else for a temperature gauge or make a fitting to allow use of a temperature gauge in the hood like I've done. 
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Joined: 29 Jan 2013
Location: Plymouth Utah
Points: 3552 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HudCo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Oct 2024 at 8:41pm
paul b that all sounds very doable does this include the 160 c.i.  i do pull my little c some and it needs more guts their ,  but i have to keep it my chore tractor also.      i would like to do that swap and use my c engine for a b i have that needs a engine 
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Points: 4753 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Oct 2024 at 10:30am
The 138/149/160 engines all have the same basic bolt up dimensions as the BE/CE engines. 
  If your only needing a little extra power I currently have a CE that will make about 30 and it could easily be bumped up near to 40. 
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
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Points: 3297 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tbran Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Oct 2024 at 12:27pm
Explain the thrust brg swap  ? The D10 crank has the thrust flange on the rear - the b/c/ca on the front ? 
When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Points: 4753 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Oct 2024 at 6:46pm
Originally posted by tbran tbran wrote:

Explain the thrust brg swap  ? The D10 crank has the thrust flange on the rear - the b/c/ca on the front ? 
 
What's there to explain? Just as I said above the BE/CE engines have the thrust main at the front of the engine and the small D series engines have the thrust main at the rear of the engine, That's just the way they are built. Look in the different parts books or pull a couple oil pans off and look for yourself. The BE/CE engines and the Smallblock D series are completely different engines and few parts were carried over in the the later design. I can't explain to you it any better and I certainly can't understand it for you. 
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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