![]() |
This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity. | |||||
The Forum | Parts and Services | Unofficial Allis Store | Tractor Shows | Serial Numbers | History |
D-10 series III |
Post Reply ![]() |
Author | |
Dusty MI ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Charlotte, Mi Points: 5059 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 11 May 2023 at 11:56am |
The front axel on my D-10 series III is set all the way in, I want to widen it out one spot. I had a hard time getting the nuts off the bolts, used an air chisel to get the nuts off the bolts, then air hammer and penetrate fluid to get the bolts out.
Now the axel will not move/slide. Any good ideas on how to get it to move? Thanks, Dusty
|
|
917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"
|
|
![]() |
|
Sponsored Links | |
![]() |
|
JoeM(GA) ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Cumming,GA Points: 4815 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
you might put nuts back on a bit loose, and CAREFULLY drive it around the yard, or some very generous walks with a deadblow hammer to jar things a bit. Rust and friction are amazing
|
|
Allis Express North Georgia
41 WC,48 UC Cane,7-G's, Ford 345C TLB |
|
![]() |
|
DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21866 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Leave the bolts out. Start cutting lots of hard circles at high speed. The rougher the better. Not for the faint of heart.
|
|
![]() |
|
steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 87703 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
2 come-alongs... 2 trees ?
|
|
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
|
|
![]() |
|
PaulB ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Rocky Ridge Md Points: 5097 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
A come along is most likely too weak. I've had some stuck front axles that took a large ratchet chain binder and lots of torch to get it apart. I've got a D10 with a front axle stuck out 2 holes and I've been using it for 2 years with 3/8' bolts with big washers and lock nuts in place of the 9/16" and with Kriol every time I use it and it hasn't moved a bit.
|
|
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
|
![]() |
|
steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 87703 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
well a 2 ton come-along would put a lot more side force on the tube then driving around in a circle all day.......... Pull TIGHT, then smack the tube with a sledge... as you said, penatrant is a good idea.
|
|
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
|
|
![]() |
|
Dusty MI ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Charlotte, Mi Points: 5059 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
The 4 bolts, 2 each side, are 3x5/8".
And they look like that at one time they were run loose. They were extremely tight. I had to use my pneumatic chisel on the nuts, to get them loose Edited by Dusty MI - 11 May 2023 at 5:12pm |
|
917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"
|
|
![]() |
|
DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21866 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Well, for those that want to use a torch and sledgehammer first, ruining the paint job, good luck !! Spending some quality time bouncing it around and turning circles with the bolts removed is at least an ATTEMPT that will show no damage and just may loosen it up so it can be moved !!!
|
|
![]() |
|
Tracy Martin TN ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gallatin,TN Points: 10769 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
The best way I have found is spreader wedges. I made a set of wedges that fit into the groove across the axel tube. When you tighten a bolt thru the wedges, they pivot over a 3/8 pin. It then tries to spread or open the open side of tube. Way more steady force than anything else . I leave bolts in one side and use that to push out opposite side axle. Then repeat with other side. Now there will still be rust, dirt and crude in it, but it will move. Clean the tube out good and the axle knees. Works like a champ. I can text a pic of one if I can remember to take a pic.HTH Tracy
|
|
No greater gift than healthy grandkids!
|
|
![]() |
|
PaulB ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Rocky Ridge Md Points: 5097 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
That's just what I've been doing on one of my D10s, I've been riding around for over 2 years with smaller bolts in the holes just to keep things somewhat together if anything were to budge. So far...ZILCH. Getting it hot from a torch it the only way it is going to move. I've also had a set of hubs on a MM U that need to come off and a 20 ton jack has yet to move them with the axle clamps loose. Some thing just must have HEAT to make them move. Good luck riding around to loosen yours, if it works great, but I wouldn't lay a bet on it doing anything.
|
|
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
|
![]() |
|
plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3911 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
On my WD project it took a 10 ton porta power and a sledge hammer to get them moving
|
|
![]() |
|
snowman(MI) ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Sand Lake, MI Points: 374 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
My trick was using a 1/4" hex head bolt and nut like a small jack to fit inside the top slot and with wrenches apply pressure by backing the nut off. You don't get much but it is something with out wedges and you can put 4-5 of these along the top slot on one side. With pressure, soak that top slot with PB blaster. After a time of soaking and the pressure on the slot of trying to spread that formed tube, I used a sledge hammer persuasion on the inside of the spindle tube to get things moving. Not a fun project by any means, about as much fun as WD/WD-45 brake band pins when they are stuck. Don't be surprised if you have the same kind of fun with the tie rod linkage as well. The force be with you on this challenge.
|
|
1950 WD, 1966 D-10 III, 1961 D-10 II, 1966 D-15 II Gas, A-C Minibike, 917 Hydro Mower, 917 Hydro Blower w/cab, West Michigan "Allis Express"
|
|
![]() |
|
DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21866 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
If 1/4" bolt/nut fits, use grade 8 NFine for the most leverage.
|
|
![]() |
|
HudCo ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 29 Jan 2013 Location: Plymouth Utah Points: 3899 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
i have used wedges under neath the side of the axle and and porta power ram the part i have the most troble with is the tie rod ends
|
|
![]() |
|
JoeO(CMO) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Cent Missouri Points: 2696 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I had the same problem when I started on my D10III, the paint wasn't good, the was an alignment problem, the spindles were going to the rear and the tie rod was rubbing the oil pan.
I could not get the sides out so I removed the front axle, installed bushing, and used a stump burning torch to heat the entire center section. With some BFH blows the sides were loose, so I proceeded to work on other areas to make ready to receive color.
|
|
![]() |
Post Reply ![]() |
|
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions ![]() You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |