This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity. | ||||||
The Forum | Parts and Services | Unofficial Allis Store | Tractor Shows | Serial Numbers | History |
D 17 Clutch |
Post Reply |
Author | |
Alberta Phil
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Alberta, Canada Points: 3776 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: 23 Oct 2024 at 7:51pm |
As I came up to the shop door and depressed the clutch pedal, I felt something fail inside the clutch housing. The pedal stays down and of course the clutch won't disengage! I think a split is in my future! What should I be looking for? I'll get a lite and look up in the bellhousing tomorrow and see if I can see what failed. I put a new clutch in there about 5 or 6 years ago. It's a '58 D17 on factory propane and probably my favorite tractor around here.
|
|
Sponsored Links | |
DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20528 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Bolt that clamps the two fork parts together loosened up and spread the parts apart.
|
|
AaronSEIA
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Mt Pleasant, IA Points: 2551 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
On mine the shaft from the pedal will come out of the trunion nut. I have no idea how and it always threads back in. Dr Allis has said you can take a 1/2" fine thread bolt and weld it to the end of the shaft for new threads. Haven't done it yet. AaronSEIA
|
|
Alberta Phil
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Alberta, Canada Points: 3776 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I'll crawl under there today and see if I can see anything thru the access hole under the clutch.
|
|
AaronSEIA
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Mt Pleasant, IA Points: 2551 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
If its the clutch rod like mine was, you can pull the pin at the clutch pedal and it'll fall right out. Was also obvious just moving the rod around where it went in the bellhousing. AaronSEIA
|
|
Alberta Phil
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Alberta, Canada Points: 3776 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I got under and had a look today and it seems the sleeve that the throw out bearing rides on had turned and the round bosses that the release lever presses against were more into the open part, between the levers. I took a bar and turned the sleeve back to where it should be and the clutch works normally again. I don't know if it will stay or not. Is there something to prevent that sleeve from turning? I've gone through my factory service manuals for the D17 and also the D19 and there is no detail on this. Edited by Alberta Phil - 25 Oct 2024 at 7:54pm |
|
DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20528 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
As I said, the 3/8" fine thread bolt is loose allowing the "lever" parts to spread apart and the t.o. bearing sleeve to rotate. With some creativity, one can tighten the bolt/nut in chassis if I remember right. The problem area is to the left down very close to the clutch rod trunnion.
Edited by DrAllis - 26 Oct 2024 at 7:46am |
|
Alberta Phil
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Alberta, Canada Points: 3776 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Thanks, Dr. I'll clean up the area and get a better light in there and see if I can get "creative"!
|
|
Alberta Phil
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Alberta, Canada Points: 3776 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I got in there today and it was an easy fix. I had to remove one of the bolts from the lower loader brace to swing it out of the way. I then pushed the clutch pedal down and braced it to the final drive housing to get better access and also to put some tension on the loose bolt to keep it from spinning. I then ran the nut up tight with my 3/8 impact gun, then double nutted it with a thin nut. All done in half an hour! Thanks, Dr Allis!!
|
|
DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20528 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
All the years they made that design (1957 thru 1980) it always should have had a legit LOCKNUT on that bolt.
|
|
Alberta Phil
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Alberta, Canada Points: 3776 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
The nut that was on there was a sort of lock nut with about six splits around it. I've run into them before in automotive applications and they are not great at "locking" unless they get really rusty!. If it comes loose again, I'll replace it with a new bolt and a fibre lock nut.
|
|
Post Reply | |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |