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1955CA 
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Joined: 10 Sep 2018
Location: Ontario, Canada
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 Topic: CA Advice
Posted: 07 Oct 2018 at 11:09pm |
So I got my 1955 CA. Right now I'm concentrating on making it all right and pretty again. There is 3 or 4 townships in my area that have fairs, so I want to participate in the parades. But they also have antique tractor pulls. I'd like to try that too. Not to be competitive but just for fun. But I also don't want to make a fool of myself, LOL.
So for a box stock CA with no weights, what should I start with for baseline settings as far as tire pressure and what gear to be in? I've also been told hitch height is critical?
And at the end of a run do you need to throttle down as you step on the clutch to stop to avoid over-revving the engine? In other words how quick do i have to catch everything?
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Sugarmaker
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Location: Albion PA
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Posted: 08 Oct 2018 at 6:24am |
I don't have a CA but my guess would be low gear and vary the throttle as needed. I don't think you have to worry much about over reving at the end. You should have plenty of time to idle it down. My grandson did real well at local fair with less throttle than I use.:) You should be in the 2500 lb class I think or maybe the 3000?? Good luck and have fun. These CA's usually do real well, even near stock. They generally have more HP than most in the same class I believe. You may find the competition will come later? Guess that just depends on you and how competitive you are, not the tractor??:)
Oh yes the hitch point can surely help you balance the tractor as stated below. Try to get the rules from all the pulls and be ready to make some minor adjustments to the hitch. Usually the height varies from one pull to the next and you may need to make changes. Most are 17 or 18 inches to top of hitch point around here. Length from center line of the axle to hitch point is generally 22 inches minimum.
Yea do the tune up work at home prior to the pulls. There is always some one tinkering with their tractor on the side lines. They may have gas or electrical issues and their tractors can falter on the track.
Make us proud!
Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 08 Oct 2018 at 6:36am
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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WF owner
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Posted: 08 Oct 2018 at 6:25am |
If it's a stock CA, you can run it wide open all day without hurting it. I've heard of guys turning them over 3000 rpm pulling (I'm sure they idle those back with no load). My advice would be to spend the most time on your hitch. Do not use a clevis! Go by your local rules, but most use a steel plate with a 3" round hole. Bolt it tight, so it can't bend down under load. You need to build some adjustment into the hitch for both length and height. You want it to be as high as your rules allow. Start out with it as close to the center of your rear wheels as the rules allow. If you can't get the front end light, you may have to lengthen it. Ideally you want the front wheels just skimming the ground when you are toward the end of your pull. You will want to remove all the weight possible, even if you are under the maximum weight. You want all the moveable weight possible, so you can move weight where you need it. Don't forget that you sit offset on a CA, so you will need to match the driver's weight on the left side of the tractor. Try to get a set of matching tires for the rear, preferably Firestones (my preference). I would start with 3 - 4 lbs. of air pressure. Buy a couple clip on air chucks, with a hose between them and build a tire equalizer. Clip it on both rear tires and let it set long enough that you have the same pressure in both tires. I built mine with a T in it and I have a 10 lbs. pressure gauge at the T and a valve so I can add air to both tires at the same time (actually two T's). If you don't want to embarrass yourself, make sure you have good gasoline flow (no obstructions in the tank outlet, sediment bowl, fuel line or carb). Make sure you have good spark plugs (no Champions!!!), points, distributer (or magneto) cap and wires. Make sure your timing is right with a timing light (not by ear). Do something where you can run it under a good heavy load for a while to make sure the engine doesn't "stumble" under load. Start out pulling in low gear. If you think you have enough power, try second. The more you pull, the more you will learn. A hard, clay track = a little more air pressure and more front end weight, with the hitch as close as possible. A soft, stone dust track = softer tires, more weight on the back and possibly a longer hitch. Watch the guys that pull ahead of you and see where they are going on the track and what their tractors are doing. GOOD LUCK!!!
Edited by WF owner - 08 Oct 2018 at 6:33am
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Charlie175
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Posted: 08 Oct 2018 at 6:58am |
I use 2nd in 3000 lb class, and then 1st. I've pulled it up to 4000 lb class for fun.
You can strip it to get to 2500 lbs, but that means chucking just about everything.
Stock, it has great power with the gearing. Add large oversize tires, then you might need more power.
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Charlie
'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD
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Ken in Texas
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Posted: 08 Oct 2018 at 8:02am |
WF owner made a error with reminding us of a CA having a offset driving position. The seat and steering wheel are dead center between the tires on all CAs. Club where you plan to pull has pulling rules. Makes a big difference especially how close to what they actually enforce especially in the FARM STOCK class. What modifications are allowed as to tire size and hitch modifications are usually spelled out in club pulling rules. Our local club rules pretty much follow the EDGETA rules for pulling. Club requires a half twist clevis if all you have is a small bolt hole in the end of your drawbar. I ran a stock C flat drawbar on my CA puller for years. CAs make good pullers right out of the box stock. Better pullers with a few mods
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1955CA
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Location: Ontario, Canada
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Posted: 08 Oct 2018 at 10:13am |
Thanks a lot everyone. You have all given me some real useful information to get started. I appreciate it. From what I have seen at our fairs here the rules are pretty loose.But I do remember one of the locals telling me that 18 inch hitch height works best and you guys just confirmed that as a good start. Sounds like I didn't go wrong buying a CA as my first antique.
I wanted to watch the last pulls to try and learn something, but I got recruited to run the pullback tractor, LOL.  |
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Charlie175
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Posted: 08 Oct 2018 at 12:41pm |
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Front end tends to get light!
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Charlie
'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 08 Oct 2018 at 3:24pm |
Sometimes the view from the pull back tractor is not too bad. Spend some time in the pits with other tractors and drivers. Most will help you just enough! Then your on your own to learn. Take some pictures of draw bar hitches and set ups. another good place to spend some time is art the scales. Volunteer to check hitch heights a couple times and you will get to see a variety of styles. If I wanted another tractor a CA would be up there near the top of the list. We need some pictures too!
Are you planning to be in the antique class? Regards, Chris |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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1955CA
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Posted: 08 Oct 2018 at 7:49pm |
The guys here are pretty good. They don't hide much because our aren't like a real competition. My Detroit Diesel mechanic pulls with some Farmall's and he gave me some advice too. He does real good with his tractors.
But yes Chris, I am just going to go to the local antique tractor trots and pulls at the local fairs.
Good point too....take more pics of hitch setups.
Here's mine. Like I said right now I have just been ordering all the stuff to make it right and look better. Changing all the fluids and filters, new gauges, some new sheetmetal, and I have to address my rear rims where they are rotten around the valve stems.  |
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 08 Oct 2018 at 8:29pm |
Good looking CA! In nice shape too! Yes the rear rims on a lot of vintage tractors need work. After repairing 6 rims it doesn't seem as bad. Your rubber looks pretty good! That will save you some money too. I like the Bolens too! Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Ken in Texas
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Posted: 09 Oct 2018 at 1:06am |
My CA running 13-6 24s on Farmall A wheels and 11"wide MF plain 4 loop rims. Note the Farmall rear wheel weights. 
Edited by Ken in Texas - 09 Oct 2018 at 1:15am
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Ken in Texas
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Posted: 09 Oct 2018 at 1:12am |
 Plain and simple drawbar setup using a long pin hitch drawbar and angle iron to add suitcase weights .
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DiyDave
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Posted: 09 Oct 2018 at 4:46am |
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[TUBE]NGV3UuqlX3o[/TUBE]
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1955CA
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Posted: 09 Oct 2018 at 8:07pm |
Sugarmaker, not to change the subject here, but years ago when I got the little lawn tractor off a friend of mine he told me it was a Bolen's also. But it is actually a 1982 MTD 824 Classic 16 h.p. And of coarse as a joke they put flames and an Orange County Choppers emblem on it before I picked it up.
I just looked at all the pics I took at my local pull where I could see the rear of the tractors and it seems everyone has a different style hitch. Some are flat plates with a hole, some are straight clevis, some twist clevis, etc.
But as Ken has shown....I was wondering if I could just start out using the drawbar.
I also had someone just offer to sell me a set of Gleaner rear rims that they say are good for pulling, but I want to keep the original spin-out rims on my tractor.
My tires are just some no-name brand. Lots of tread but they have lots of cracks in them. Tires are the last thing I am going to buy for it. Just because i want to put the money to everything else first.
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1955CA
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Posted: 09 Oct 2018 at 8:11pm |
Here's some better pics of what I am dealing with on my rear rims. 
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1955CA
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Posted: 09 Oct 2018 at 8:12pm |
The other pic. 
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1955CA
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Posted: 09 Oct 2018 at 8:14pm |
Nice pics and video guys. That turbo CA is cool. Bet that sounds sweet in person. My friend put a turbo on his IH.
Again, I really appreciate all the help here everyone.  |
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DSpears N IL
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Posted: 09 Oct 2018 at 8:58pm |
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 09 Oct 2018 at 9:07pm |
Sorry I was mistaken on the lawn tractor. The white paint and similar grill had me fooled. Yes your factory drawbar is fine to use. You will need a clevis or a D ring plate, for the big hook. Usually at least a 3 inch opening for the hook. You may be surprised how the CA does! Good luck! Have fun! I am going to local tractor pull Saturday if the weather permits.
Yes that rim needs fixed. Probably before you try pulling it much too. Find a donor rim to cut out good patches/pieces and weld in, or look at new rims. Depends on your comfort level with fab work. If your going to fix them I would recommend taking the rim and have it sandblasted first. then see how good/bad it really is.
Edited by Sugarmaker - 09 Oct 2018 at 9:17pm
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Charlie175
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Posted: 10 Oct 2018 at 7:04am |
If you have/find an extra rim, they can cut out a patch from it to fix the valve stem part.
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Charlie
'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD
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Charlie175
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Posted: 10 Oct 2018 at 7:08am |
Issue with stock tractor is places to hang weights on. Makes it hard to weight up.
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Charlie
'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD
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DiyDave
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Posted: 10 Oct 2018 at 6:03pm |
 Charlie175 wrote:
If you have/find an extra rim, they can cut out a patch from it to fix the valve stem part.
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And the good news is, is that any 24" tractor rim can be the donor, for patches
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just having Fun!
