Bar's Leaks Head gasket sealant

I have used the COPPER 1109 stuff with great success.. Not like the slimy goop stuff they sold 30 years ago.  Had a leaking head gasket on an old F150 and i would seal it up and good for about 1 year... Then do it again...

Edited by steve(ill) - 26 Mar 2025 at 12:31pm

Thanks Steve and Lars. I'm going to give it a try

If it does work, it would just be a band aid.  Eventually you are going to have to replace the gasket anyway.

I have a WD that froze and cracked the block behind the carburetor (where they all crack). When I bought it, it had been welded but still seeped pretty good when it was warm. 

The only one that I have seen to work is called "Irontite". I have used it in several different applications.

My experience was a 2004 Chevy Monte Carlo with the 3.4 V6. Was going down the road and developed a miss and warmed up quickly. So it was blown pretty bad. HOWEVER, at the same time we had a Pontiac Montana with the same engine. Together those two vehicles damn near bankrupted me, no exaggeration, no lie. One thing after another I could not get ahead of it. When that gasket blew I was about broke and saw the Bars Leaks Head Gasket formula so gave it a shot. So racked up even more on the credit card and got the head gasket replaced. 18 months later the engine seized. The van’s frequent trick was to pull the studs that held the rocker arms out of the block. Fix was to drill out and put an oversized helicoil in so you could use a bigger stud. The third time that happened I had them do ALL the rest of them.

GM took the very good 3.8 engine and cheapened it in every possible way to spawn the 3.4. The late 2000’s and early Teens were sure a rough patch in the life of ol’ Tbone! And my GM experiment was OVER!

Edited by Tbone95 - 27 Mar 2025 at 7:04am

the "new stuff" is not the same as the BLACK GUMMY GOO or the SILVER FLAKES that were common 30 - 50 years ago... The "New stuff" does not seem to plug radiator or internal passages.... some how it looks for a Differential pressure, like leaking into the crank case or combustion chamber or external... "normal flow" thru the passages is OK.

Edited by steve(ill) - 27 Mar 2025 at 8:38am

I’ve been told by a very knowledgeable reliable source that they dump a dose of bars leaks into a brand new car when it’s built.

How long does it take for coolant/water to show up in the bottom of the oil pan? Overnight or a couple days? Thanks!

You're still having coolant getting in the oil ???   Step #1. Leave the antifreezed coolant full in the radiator. NOT straight water. #2. Remove the valve cover. #3. Pressurize the radiator to 12 psi max. #4. Inspect the freeze plugs that are on top of the cylinder head located UNDER the valve cover. #5. If they are dry/no leakage, remove the engine oil pan and inspect for leaking sleeve orings while the radiator is pressurized still. I don't believe you've had the pan off to look at the sleeve orings. You were assuming it was the head gasket.

Sometimes, yes, maybe only when hot. You had water or coolant ??

Straight antifreeze leaks EASIER than water or a coolant mix because the molecules are smaller. Finding a leak with straight water can be more difficult.

i would run the tractor for an hour and cycle it a couple times before i gave up.... your small leak is one that should easily be fixed by sealer... Its the BIG leaks that are normally a NO GO.

Yeah Steve, that's my plan. Thanks