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LittleB 
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Joined: 18 Aug 2020
Location: Ontario Ca.
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 Topic: Allis B Starter Quandry
Posted: 3 hours 36 minutes ago at 4:56pm |
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The starter drive broke on my B. When I replaced it I noticed damage on the corners of the ring gear. Now the new starter drive doesn't always fully engage the ring gear. I noticed when reinstalling the starter that the alignment hole in the housing set the starter back by almost a quarter of an inch away from bottom out position toward the ring gear. Is this normal. If not can I fill the back end of this hole and redo the hole to push the starter forward.
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 80331
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Posted: 3 hours 23 minutes ago at 5:09pm |
i have drilled new holes in the housing to ROTATE the starter to another postion. I have not seen one that was off on the DEPTH.... but i guess thats possible... YES, it should be the same as the OLD STARTER.
another thing is the ENGINE always stops in the SAME POSITON ( 80% of the time)... so there will be 4-5 teeth in a row that show much more damage on the ring gear than the rest of the teeth.. You might need to rotate the ring gear on the flywheel or install a new gear if the teeth are rounded off too bad.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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dfwallis
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Joined: 09 Mar 2023
Location: DFW
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Posted: 3 hours 8 minutes ago at 5:24pm |
 LittleB wrote:
The starter drive broke on my B. When I replaced it I noticed damage on the corners of the ring gear. Now the new starter drive doesn't always fully engage the ring gear. I noticed when reinstalling the starter that the alignment hole in the housing set the starter back by almost a quarter of an inch away from bottom out position toward the ring gear. Is this normal. If not can I fill the back end of this hole and redo the hole to push the starter forward. |
I'd recommend as Steve says, but if something was to be modified, I might be more inclined to mod the starter itself. Perhaps there is a washer at the end of the throw mechanism that could be a little thinner. Perhaps the collar on the starter could be taken to a machine shop and shaved a tiny bit (I doubt 1/4 inch is a good idea). You want to keep it nice and square. And of course ensure that the starter mounting hole is thoroughly cleaned. If you mod the tractor, then you (or somebody) may be forced to create shims to return to the original depth in the future (not really that big a deal and probably not very likely).
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1952 CA13092
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
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Posted: 1 hour 51 minutes ago at 6:41pm |
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Yes, Gary is right.. i ment drill the taper hole in the Starter HOUSING, not the bell housing..
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Location: illinois
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Posted: 1 hour 44 minutes ago at 6:48pm |
Rereading you post, you might mean when you install the new starter, that there is a small gap between the bell housing and the starter case and it COULD be pushed in another 1/4 inch... YES, i have seen that.. What you want is for the distance from the end of the nose piece to the hole in the starter to be the SAME as the original... The starter does not necessarily push in as far as possible.. The taper hole is a Locater point.
Edited by steve(ill) - 1 hour 23 minutes ago at 7:09pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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dfwallis
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Posted: 1 hour 35 minutes ago at 6:57pm |
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Ah, I assumed that the starter would be against the end of the mounting hole, but if not, then "relocating" the lock screw hole in the starter might work fine.
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1952 CA13092
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LittleB
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Location: Ontario Ca.
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Posted: 46 minutes ago at 7:46pm |
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Steve the starter that you posted in the fixture shows to be much closer then mine. I plan to reposition the hole on the starter to move it to a more favorable position. There is more wear on one section of the ring gear.
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LittleB
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Posted: 44 minutes ago at 7:48pm |
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I meant picture, not fixture.
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