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Allis 5020 cold starts proper procedure? |
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curvecrazy
Bronze Level Joined: 18 Aug 2010 Location: Buffalo NY Points: 6 |
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Posted: 04 Feb 2023 at 11:02pm |
Does anyone have access to the original “Operator’s Manual” for this tractor? Or Hinemoto E23 or Simplicity 9523? I’m wondering now about the cold start procedure for these.
As per my previous thread, I’m doing some fiddling here with my Simplicity 9523 two cylinder Toyosha diesel. I decided to get into the service manuals(factory shop manual and I&T Shop Service Manual too) to refresh on this tractor, especially regarding fuel injection, injectors and glow plugs. So I start reading in the Factory Service Manual, and there’s a pretty thorough explanation of what it is, how it works, how you adjust things like the injection pump timing etc. Even talks about ins and outs of rebuilding injectors. Along the way, it gets into the fuel injection pump governor design, and how mashing the throttle lever or pedal on cold start allows the mechanism to actually put a “blat of extra above a beyond fuel” into the system during cold startups. There’s description of a fuel control rack and “excess displacement of fuel control rack” and “excess fuel play angle”. There’s also what they refer to as “an adaptor device”, which seems to address full throttle load down unload situations sort of automatically. Like, you apparently, can, when working a 3 pt PTO driven implement that’s obviously going to experience draw down on the motor situations, you can just set it at fast idle (2700 rpm? At the throttle stop??) and just let it work! The adapter device apparently works the fuel injection governor to maintain rpms with no input from the operator… ? Hmmm. I’ve always just run her at 2500rpm, or less depending the particular application, as per the tach, and given her gas manually by the foot pedal if she starts bogging down under load. Something about just pegging the hand throttle on the stop and going without further thought makes me uneasy.. but I had no idea it might be designed to do just that and the governor just manages your fuel delivery as it senses. What it seems to amount to though, the startup part, for most users, in real world application, is that it seems to be saying that they designed it to be started with the throttle lever pulled to the throttle stop, or foot pedal to the metal, and thus (as such) the fuel injection pump internal lever(s) and spring mechanisms pulled out to max, which does this hyper extension thing (explained in the manual) of the fuel control rack… and puts extra fuel into the combustion chamber to aid cold startup. So they seem to be saying that the operator should do this, mash the throttle, and when it catches and goes, operator should just push back the lever or let off the foot pedal for cold idle and warmup. I’m not sure if you would be doing your glow plug slow count to 60 pre heat before doing this.. because it would seem that when it shoots in a blat of fuel, that it’s effectively cooling your preheated chambers. But… maybe no, cause the theory being that additional fuel is best utilized on cold startup. If someone could reference the owners manual that might add clarity. I didn’t get an owners manual with this tractor. I have never started mine that way. And I’ve used it for 400+ hours. I always use the glow plugs judiciously. I have a big fat truck battery in there to spin things. And I have always given her no throttle or barely any throttle on turnover, i find with my particular sample, she starts better (more cleanly) if I leave the throttle lever set at about 1100rpm at shutdown. Next cold start she’s easier to get going that way. Now I’m wondering if I was doing this wrong all along? Anyone have access to the original user manual and the manufacturer starting instructions? Of course I can just try using the described method when it warms up here a bit and I need to make sure that my glow plugs are working right too, per my other post.
Edited by curvecrazy - 04 Feb 2023 at 11:27pm |
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