AC 6060

What kind of diesel engine do I have in my 1983 AC 6060.

I have a small drip from the front crankshaft seal. How hard is this to replace? I have replaced seals in some engines by dropping pan and loosening the Main caps, letting the crank drop slightly. This works if the seal is 2 piece.

What am I looking at on this engine???

Allis Chalmers 6060
10' Howse Rotary Cutter
5' Tiller
5' Box Blade
4' Aerator
Ferris Zero Turn Mower W/10' fold up sprayer
John Deere 455 Lawn Tractor
John Deere 955 w/loader &
60" belly mower

if i remember ita a fiat / allis .. do you have the front block so the crank dont slide ?

WD WD45 DIESEL D 14 D-15 SERIES 2 190XT TERRA TIGER ac allcrop 60 GLEANER F 6060 7040.and attachments for all Proud to be an active farmer

If it doesn't have the add on external thrust bearing mounted in front of the crank pulley you may have more going on than just a leaking seal. They were known for crank bearing problems because they didn't have thrust bearings initially as that engine was originally designed for belt drive applications. A leaking front seal was often the first sign of trouble. I don't mean to scare you, just sayin.

'49 A-C WD, '51 A-C WD, '63 A-C D17 Series III, 1968 A-C One-Seventy, '82 A-C 6060, '75 A-C 7040, A-C #3 sickle mower, 2 A-C 701 wagons, '78 Gleaner M2

No problem sir.

'49 A-C WD, '51 A-C WD, '63 A-C D17 Series III, 1968 A-C One-Seventy, '82 A-C 6060, '75 A-C 7040, A-C #3 sickle mower, 2 A-C 701 wagons, '78 Gleaner M2

That sucks. That was a big oversight by A-C engineers.

'49 A-C WD, '51 A-C WD, '63 A-C D17 Series III, 1968 A-C One-Seventy, '82 A-C 6060, '75 A-C 7040, A-C #3 sickle mower, 2 A-C 701 wagons, '78 Gleaner M2

no pic..but look for a grease zerk and block toward the front end ...

WD WD45 DIESEL D 14 D-15 SERIES 2 190XT TERRA TIGER ac allcrop 60 GLEANER F 6060 7040.and attachments for all Proud to be an active farmer

I did the crank seal on my 6080 a few years back. Did not need to remove the front cover or oil pan. Mine is a 1985 model so the crank shaft movement problems were resolved by then.

'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080

Eddie wrote:

Do you know what was the first year that the problem was resolved?

When I go out I'll get the serial number so we can make sure what year it is.

Allis Chalmers 6060
10' Howse Rotary Cutter
5' Tiller
5' Box Blade
4' Aerator
Ferris Zero Turn Mower W/10' fold up sprayer
John Deere 455 Lawn Tractor
John Deere 955 w/loader &
60" belly mower

The 6060 6070 6080 engines were 4 cylinder versions of 2800 -2900 engines. Same bearings as piston cooled 301's. 6060's had few problems since they were equippped with smaller clutches. The larger clutch in the 6080 resulted in super heavy thrust loads on the thrust brgs on the crankshaft. The tractors would only crank with the foot on the clutch and the hand clutch lever for the pto pulled back. Since the engines at first had lower compression ratios due to a higer boost level at mid to upper hp range the thought was to lower compression to keep engine life up - alass as in pulling tractors. Problem was lower compression ratios caused hard starting. Thus the engines were cranked way too long with little or no oil pressure - thus wearing out the thrust brgs and crankshaft. Many low cost attempts were tried as a fix like slotted brgs. The 'fix' was to install a secondary thrust bearing on the front crank bolt to assist the thrust brg during starting and pto clutch loads. NOTE if I had a 6060-6070-6080 I would install a safety start system that would not let the engine start with the seasonal disconect (the lever on the rh side) in gear or the trans shift lever in gear. This would allow the eng to crank withour pushing in the foot clutch or the had clutch for the PTO, this will take the pressure off the crank thrust brg. Again only if a positive non crank in gear system was put in place.

Human safety is more important than iron preservation. Late sn engines after 33k-21863 had double wide thrust brgs and a wider thrust area in the crankshaft itself. They did not require the front bra kit. Be careful when changing or swapping cranks. Anyone who has built a 301 or 433 has found the old blocks have a wire edge that will prevent the wider brgs from fitting in the block. The block will accept the late brgs if the sides of the block that prevent the brgs from fitting in the saddle are filed down smooth. No problem, easy to do. Late engines were equipped with higher compression pistions and smaller .032 orfice tips. They cranked much better in cold weather. 33k-20381 was the cut in sn for high compression pistions, best of my info. Older engines on F2's and K2's with the 201 ci engines had the old AC injectors. These all had the low compression pistons as well. The advantage to these were that IF the correct ether system was used they would crank without the ether knock and damage that occurs when excessive starting fluid is used. Hope this helps. It is rare to have a front seal leak on these engines as the front seal does not rub on the crank itself, but if the crank does move back and forth it is a tell-tale issue.

Can I still buy the bra kit for my engine? I don't have one and my engine number is 33K-14741. Would like to install one when I replace the seal.

Allis Chalmers 6060
10' Howse Rotary Cutter
5' Tiller
5' Box Blade
4' Aerator
Ferris Zero Turn Mower W/10' fold up sprayer
John Deere 455 Lawn Tractor
John Deere 955 w/loader &
60" belly mower

We put one on last spring and was available from AGCO

Dale-OH wrote:

We put one on last spring and was available from AGCO

Do you remember the cost? Maybe part number?

Allis Chalmers 6060
10' Howse Rotary Cutter
5' Tiller
5' Box Blade
4' Aerator
Ferris Zero Turn Mower W/10' fold up sprayer
John Deere 455 Lawn Tractor
John Deere 955 w/loader &
60" belly mower

Part # 70274413 Available $364 Will also need hardware to put it on.

as to the ether, as long as it is applied via the nozzle while cranking, one is ok. Later model 433I 's had DUAL heating elements. IF one had a good pair of batteries this would really work until about 29 degrees and then the engine would run and die for many restarts and the batteries just wouldn't hold up usually.

Yes, the pto consists of an engagement knob that you pull up to engage, push down to disengage. This actually uncouples it from the drive gears in the transmission. There is also a long lever that you push forward to engage, pull back to disengage. That is the one that puts all the stress on the crank bearings when it is pulled back. The knob is to be disengaged when not in use so you can leave that long lever in the forward position, thus relieving the stress on the crank bearings. That is why the yellow warning light comes on when the long lever is disengaged (pulled back) to remind you that you are stressing the crank bearings. Confused yet? It was an obvious afterthought by the engineers at the eleventh hour.

'49 A-C WD, '51 A-C WD, '63 A-C D17 Series III, 1968 A-C One-Seventy, '82 A-C 6060, '75 A-C 7040, A-C #3 sickle mower, 2 A-C 701 wagons, '78 Gleaner M2

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