A/C HD5G #9552

Dependent on if Trunk type or Cross Head pistons as to parts lists.

I'm ready to pull the head.  Is there any trick to get it loose?  It doesn't seem too big and heavy to manage it manually.  I can't find any point of purchase to work a long crowbar.  Recommendations?  Thanks

I am't sure if the water pump have to be removed with speacer plate to pull the head off and not sure too if the 2 long bolts from blower are bolted in block or in head

I'll put the chain on the back of the lift circle closest to the handle.  The pull won't be perfectly vertical.  Just hope to break loose without breaking anything. 

[QUOTE=DiyDave]If you have everything on the head that holds it to the block removed, take #2 piston, and re-assemble it, with a piece of something like carpet, or a circle of wood, on top.  Put the old bearing halves in, around the crank, and turn the crank, to pop the head off... [QUOTE]

Head should come off easily without all this monkey business . 
Injector tube is copper and flared at end into head - the hole through is not large enough to pass much through . 
 IF all the bolts are removed head should be able to be lifted - looks like you have the lift rings on head secured to your lifting device , next get a soft blow hammer and tap on head . 
 Now pistons and liners come out from top , pistons can be removed with liners intact yet in block - liners are shimmed into block to get a proud dimension from top of block face of about .005 . 
 With all the crusty crud in the bottom of the blower housing - evidently the drain hole on bottom of housing is closed off - it's a 1/4" threaded hole in bottom of the housing and it MUST be open to allow drainage . 

Edited by Coke-in-MN - 25 Jan 2020 at 10:18pm

I am not sure but you need to removed the water pump and oil cooler for removed the head

tolerances determine that

Is cross hatch the hone on the cylinder wall?  I guess I should get each piston to its bottom and see what it looks like.  I should clean it up with some oil and check it then?  The exhaust stems  as seen through the ports are rusted.  I'll try to do this now.  Need to charge up my battery.

Google Detroit 71 Series Cylinder Kits. Gonna be in the $200 Each hole range.

They are a pretty simple PDP Gear Pump with check valves to keep flowing forward. Feed thru to a restrictor fitting at end of head on the back to tank line.

WaltDevore wrote: I appreciate the encouragement.  How miraculous to resurrect.  Back to my idler, is it possible to replace the front idler without splitting the track?  The track comes off so easily running it.  I can't quite get it off so far with the side jacked up.  I'd hope to put the new idler on with the adjuster all the way back and use a chain hooked to the track and forward tilt to pull track over new idler.  Is that too optimistic?

Good luck on your project Walt and welcome to the forum. These folks have the advice and answers. AS to your track idler, I was able to pull my track adjuster, yoke and then idler assembly on my HD16. I used a 20 ton porta power to push the idler and yoke as far forward as possible and they allowed me just enough room to pull the adjuster rod out at the rear of the assembly. Once that was out, I pulled the yoke and was able to jack up the tractor enough to free up the idler. Was a hot mess of a project as I was learning as I was going but I did not have to split the track.

Also the comment as to the wear on the rails is very valid. Mine are adjusted almost to the very front of the rails so I had enough stretch to be make it all work.