7060 Jack Bolts

The information I have came from Allis Chalmers service publication.  7030 Thru 7080 dated Nov. 1975 and the procedure with two jack bolts likewise.  I continue to not know how jack bolts can be used in bushing flange holes that are not tapped ???? I have a feeling that this issue / discussion is more  about the size of your head than about sharing information or helping each other.  THEREFORE I"M DONE WITH YOU.  

Dale Hardtke wrote: The information I have came from Allis Chalmers service publication.  7030 Thru 7080 dated Nov. 1975 and the procedure with two jack bolts likewise.  I continue to not know how jack bolts can be used in bushing flange holes that are not tapped ???? I have a feeling that this issue / discussion is more  about the size of your head than about sharing information or helping each other.  THEREFORE I"M DONE WITH YOU.

 

Well, it took John Deere till the 55 series to figure out that its easier to push the wheel off the wedges than to try and push one wedge out by itself.

littlemarv wrote: Someone needs to make a video demonstrating whatever in the hell you guys are trying to do

Best post of the hole blamed thread!

I still remember the year we went from 36" rows down to 30" rows. On our 7/8000 series tractors, we would have had a mess if we had tried to use just two jack bolts, as it was bad enough with using four. Got to go with the Doc on this one.

I am not going to take sides here, because using two jack bolts and using four can both be right ways to do it. One of the first jobs I got assigned to when I first started working in the shop at a farm equipment dealership was a three way tire swap involving 8000 series tractors; all brand new. For simplicity we'll call the tractors A, B , and C. Rear wheels (cast centers and all) from tractor A went onto tractor B, B to C, and C to A. Don't remember the fine details, but all were FWA, and some front wheels may have been changed, too. It came down to the particular size tire that one customer wanted, and still having matching ratios between front and rear. I had never done the job in my life, much less even had a clue how to. Bosses instructions were to put the keyway up, pull the bolts out of the bottom wedge, and use the special bolts, as he called them (the jack bolts) to push the bottom wedge out. With air impacts and having two small forklifts to handle the wheels, the whole job went off without a snag. Never took a single keyed wedge out. BUT.....everything was BRAND NEW! I've never had to do the job on a 7 or 8 thousand series since, but I have no doubt that years of rust could change the whole scope of things. If I had to do the job again, long before I would put enough torque on a jack bolt to break an ear off, I would use four bolts on both wedges. I have removed wheel centers several times on D19/one ninety and XT tractors that have much age on them, and have never had an issue. I ALWAYS clean the jack bolt hole threads with a tap, brake parts cleaner, and compressed air until they are about flawless. Then I use grease, not oil, on the threads in the hole and on the jack bolt, plus I grease the pointed tip of the jack bolt. Go from bolt to bolt with the air impact and just chatter a little on each one, and never had one put up much of a fight. Guess when I get back to doing 7 or 8 thousand series ones again, I'll use the "clean and grease" method and try getting out JUST the non-keyed wedge. But as I stated previously, long before I am putting enough pressure on to bust off an ear, I'll use four jack bolts and take out both wedges.
Now, put the gloves away and let's all get along. We can't afford to lose ANY members off of this forum. Any and all advice from everyone is necessary to keep the old allis spirit alive. Darrel   

I did mention the big sledge in my second post last Sunday. I also used a 3/4" drive air impact gun. Didn't have to use heat. I broke the flange off a wedge on a 4250 JD years ago. Talked to the service manager at the dealership and he said to use a big sledge and hit the end of the axle as hard as you can after you have full torque on the pusher bolts.