7030 Timing Issue

You sure it is not 1/2 off on the time. Line up marks in the pump, take drive gear off and turn   crankshaft one round, install gear and try.

Whomever did the pump has to tell you what to time it at. A 7030 pump is 24 degrees BTDC. BUT, if it has been updated to 7040 timing advance it is 16 degrees BTDC. FIGURE IT OUT or you will ruin the engine.

Another perfectly good reason to align the pumps timing marks BEFORE removal so you KNOW where the running engine was timed at to begin with !!!!

You've been given damn good help. The rubber mounted crank pulley can slip and cause you the installer timing issues because the numbers are wrong. The pumps static timing numbers are also different between engine models (you said it has a different engine) and depending on what repairs have been done to it over the years. Incorrect timing can and will burn the piston bowls, so getting it right is indeed important. Your feelings are hurt over this ??? You've got everything you need to know right here and you're not taking advantage of it??  There will be hundreds of people who read this post and some will make a mental note of always aligning the pumps timing marks before pump removal to eliminate start-up timing issues. We all learn from this website. Good luck.

Edited by DrAllis - 16 Aug 2025 at 5:03pm

I do appreciate the responses, but some of your previous notes didn’t come across to me as confidence building. I’m sorry. We haven’t much luck getting anything to work like it should lately. This tractor is just another thing in a long line of problems. The engine is dated 1-31-79, the tractor serial is 70301993, which means the tractor was built in 1973. All we really want to is if that engine should really be for a 7030, or if it’s for some other model. If we know that if it’s for like a 7040, the timing has to be different. We replaced the crankshaft pulley, so it shouldn’t have shifted.

You mention rebuilding most everything except the injectors. I would assume they went in with the pump, but it isn't stated. Low pop pressures can cause your spray pattern to suffer. And I would listen to DrAllis about the pump shop knowing what timing advance is in the pump and using that to set timing. Beyond that I would say back to basics, do a compression check, check cranking speed. It should be good, but right now it is unknown. Make a checklist, and go through it, not just thinking it should be good because it has been rebuilt but verify that it is good. Something isn't quite right and nobody else on this forum was there when it went together, so all any of us can do is toss out suggestions, with some members having seen many more failures and their causes than the rest of us. I hope you get it figured out.

Ted

keppy32 wrote: It runs tonight. Appears to be a 7040 engine in a 7030 unit. Set it to 16 degrees & it took right off.

And that advice was given to you before you spouted off with “ We came here looking for help. If we knew what kind of remarks we would get, I wouldn’t have bothered.” You were given great help, no one else’s fault you couldn’t comprehend it.

The way it was timed, it should have started with a whiff or two of ether. However, continued use at that 24 degree setting ( instead of 16) would have eventually burned the piston bowls, ruining your fresh OH. That is why it was imperative to figure it out. Which engine, which injection pump, what updates the inj pump has gotten over the years, all of these things make a difference to timing. It's very difficult to offer the most accurate advice when pieces to the puzzle aren't known. I'm glad you got it running.