6080 external thrust bearing

Hi everybody! I am new to the forum. I have recently undertaken the task of saving a early model 6080 for a friend. It hasn't been ran in roughly 15 years, it does now. The question I have is with the external thrust bearing. How is it shimmed or adjusted? Are there even replacement parts available? I have all the manuals(operators, service and parts) however, that is not even listed. The pto wont engage at all. The tractor runs and drives and brakes all work. Several weekends of fussing with it. But the bearing in the bra has me perplexed... thanks

Can't help you with the bra.  The PTO is an abomination. The 6000 series is a Fiat Tractor with a Allis engine.  

For crank end play you have to use a dial indicator, usually set it on the crank pulley and then bar it back and forth to get a measurement of how far it moves.  Do a check first before you take anything apart so you have a baseline measurement.  It is also a very good idea to remove that front plate and check total movement of the crank, especially if the tractor is new to you.  I set mine at normal crank thrust clearance, around .005"(book shows .003 to .013), but check your total movement first just to make sure you set the thrust plate at least equal to that amount or less.  Maybe you have a crank endplay of only .004(very rare) then I would try to set the thrust plate at that.  DO NOT set it at zero or preload, you want normal bearing oil clearance to prevent wear.  You have to add or subtract shims/washers from the front plate to change clearance.  Important that you grease that bearing zerk in there at least every oil change.

Picked up a slightly used one on ebay. Pricey but worth it. The pto clutch lever was all the way down. However, the pins going to the clutch arm were missing. New ones made on the metal lathe and installed with bronze bushings. Ordered a new clutch cable from amazon.

That's what we were thinking as well Mack. We will drop the pan today to see what's going on in there. Ended up machining. 020 off the stub shaft as it was rubbing on the plate. The pin holding the shaft to the plate was broken. Machined a new pin and put weak spot in it as the original must've had. Still fighting with the rear hydraulic cylinder to get that off. To get the PTO housing off to seal up the leak around the welded repair area.

Where are you engaging pto. Sitting in seat. Left side is a knob sticking up next to seat. That's a seasonal disconnect, which the tractor needs to be shut off to pull up into gear with out grinding. Then you let the hand clutch on right side forward to engage pto. And if your not using pto you leave hand clutch forward and leave the knob on left side down, disengaged.

Edited by Mikez - 28 Nov 2020 at 8:26pm

Idle the tractor down, pull the right side handle back, pull up rod on left.  If things are adjusted correctly, it should not grind.  Move right lever forward to engage the PTO.   I have the right lever adjusted so it will not lock back, just pull back to stop PTO temporarily.  Right lever forward and left rod down when not actively using PTO.

Ky.Allis wrote: This clusterf*** system is exactly why I would never own a 6000 series AC. A hydraulic PTO clutch like my 200 has would have been so simple and reliable. I know they are Fiat built tractors except for the engine and for the most part they are good tractors but the PTO clutch was just poor engineering.

The idea is to pry fore and aft. The pulley is easiest and any bar you come up with to do the job. Without prying pressure and dial indicator you will not know what the true end play is.

The crankshafts thrust bearing on the 6060-70-80 was/is the same as a 180-185-190-190XT-200-7000. It was plenty for all those models, but when combined with the European designed dual clutch (traction and PTO clutches) it was borderline overloaded. This was especially true when someone has the stage coach handle pulled back and locked and then stepped on the foot clutch to start a cold engine with no oil pressure.