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Jeff(WD45-SATX-TN) 
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Sewanee, TN
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 Topic: WD45 Hand Clutch - Shaft Seal
Posted: 17 May 2011 at 6:03pm |
The shaft the connect to the actual hand clutch lever and then into the side of the clutch housing. Can this seal be replaced easily? Need some input on my logic. Drain fluid, open the transmission clutch cover, remove side rail, remove the set screw, remove the shaft, remove old seal, install in reverse order? Can the esperts weigh in? What am I missing?
Thanks Jeff
Edited by Jeff(WD45-SATX-TN) - 17 May 2011 at 6:04pm
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1954 WD45 NF "Iron Tater"
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Jeff(WD45-SATX-TN)
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Sewanee, TN
Points: 443
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Posted: 18 May 2011 at 1:17pm |
Nobody has any input??
Just want to see if I can replace the seal be simply removing the shaft out the side of the case, replace the seal, and then reassemble.
Jeff
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1954 WD45 NF "Iron Tater"
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mattb
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Posted: 18 May 2011 at 1:37pm |
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You will need to remove framerail too.
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Steve M C/IL
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Posted: 18 May 2011 at 11:24pm |
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from exploded view in parts book I'd say you have it figured out.wouldn't have to drain it all but probably needs changed anyway.I am not an expert.
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Teddy (punchie)
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Location: Beaver PA
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Posted: 19 May 2011 at 4:45am |
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Jeff I'm setting here try to recall doing it.
I know, I did it, and that I just got a cold rolled bar stock. Took it to school and had a student, friend turn it down on a lathe. Made it fit about 1/2 of the way into the housing, sanding and filing to make it fit 1/2 way. Don't recall taking a lot of things off of the tractor to make room. Placing the new pin in freezer after cold and using a hammer to tap and I mean tap, crowbar and a bigger bar pressed it in cold.
Never touched it again only to grease it. Only one I have ever seen leak or was loose. I have 7 of them. 4 WD's , 2 45's and one parts.
Edited by Teddy (punchie) - 19 May 2011 at 4:20pm
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Ac D-19, a Number of WD's, One WD45, Two 444 balers, Ac plows and etc.
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David Maddux
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Posted: 19 May 2011 at 7:44am |
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I have replaced my shaft from the inside of trans. I made a bolt with two nuts welded together and used the nuts to push against the shaft and turned the nuts until the shaft was in place.
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Steve M C/IL
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Posted: 19 May 2011 at 9:47am |
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Reading comprehension is a lost art.
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Teddy (punchie)
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Posted: 19 May 2011 at 4:17pm |
 Teddy (punchie) wrote:
Jeff I'm setting here try to recall doing it.
I know I did it and that I just got a cold rolled bar stock. Took it to school and had a student, friend turn it down on a lathe. Made it fit about 1/2 the of the way, into the housing, sanding and filing to make it fit 1/2 way. Don't recall taking a lot of things off. Placing in freezer and using a hammer tap and I mean tap, crowbar and a bigger bar pressed it in cold.
Never touched it again only to grease it. Only one I have ever seen leak or was loose. I have 7 of them. 4 WD's , 2 45's and one parts.
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Jeff I don't recall there being a seal in the housing. I think it is just pressed in tight. It should not move at all.
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Ac D-19, a Number of WD's, One WD45, Two 444 balers, Ac plows and etc.
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Jeff(WD45-SATX-TN)
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Location: Sewanee, TN
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Posted: 19 May 2011 at 4:39pm |
Not the fixed shaft the actual hand lever rides on. I am talking about the one that goes into the clutch housing. The shaft that engages the clutch mechanism. There is a seal there. The way I am interpreting the manuals and pictures, it looks as though that shaft will slide right out of the side. Once the frame rail is off, and the set screw inside the clutch housing is removed. This one:
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1954 WD45 NF "Iron Tater"
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TomMN
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Posted: 19 May 2011 at 8:46pm |
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I think you have it right, that shaft should slide out once the set screw is removed. Removing the seal once you get the shaft out might be tough, but then you don't need to save the old one so it can be destructively removed. Putting in the new seal should be easy and replacing the shaft should not be too bad either, just holding up the engaging fork to thread the shaft through it and then replacing the set screw. Good luck with it. Tom
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Jeff(WD45-SATX-TN)
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Posted: 19 May 2011 at 8:49pm |
Thanks Tom for the confirmation. Thanks also for that picture!
Edited by Jeff(WD45-SATX-TN) - 19 May 2011 at 8:50pm
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1954 WD45 NF "Iron Tater"
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TomMN
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Posted: 19 May 2011 at 8:56pm |
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No problem, I'm glad to see it was of use to you.
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Chris/CT
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Posted: 19 May 2011 at 9:00pm |
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Unrelated to original Post, Anyone know the correct thickness of the friction plates in the WD/WD45 Hand clutch? I have been cleaning/stocking a few used set's here and have come up with .100 for the best looking ones, is this acceptable thickness?? Have noted the ID number on this disc's also, my lining man has never been able to find these plates.
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