d17 front wheel spacing and how to?
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=29553
Printed Date: 03 May 2024 at 1:58pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: d17 front wheel spacing and how to?
Posted By: Sitesstables
Subject: d17 front wheel spacing and how to?
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2011 at 7:48am
OK, My wheels are set way out on the front of my D17 series IV.. The wheels are set so that I see 4 holes.. Question#1 what should it be for normal usage? #2 I see two bolts on each side. I figure that you take those out and then jack up front and puch the beam and the tierod (once loosened) back to where you want it? Before I bought this the guy had a loader on the front and kept busting tie rods and rims. figure because he had them set so far out.. I do not have a loader on it anymore but it looks extremely wide how far out do you guys set yours?
This is a pic the day I picked it up you can see how wide they are.
 The grill is now back on and the canopy slash tarp is gone.. ------------- 1965 D17 Series IV |
Replies:
Posted By: junkman
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2011 at 8:04am
| You ask what would be normal usage width for your front end, tractor data.com says it could be adjusted from between 53 to 79 inches. it could depend on if you are going to plow with it or not and the size of plow plus other factors as well. You want your front tires to be set proportionate to what you need the back tires set at. looks like mine, all maxed out but I am pulling a 4 bottom plow so it works out fine. |
Posted By: Sitesstables
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2011 at 8:13am
|
I just move round bales, bush hog with it.. and a yard box and grader so maybe will push them back in 2 holes ------------- 1965 D17 Series IV |
Posted By: EdIL
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2011 at 10:53am
| One of the manuals say to align the inside of the front tire with the inside of the rear tire. The narrower the front axle, the stronger. for what it's worth - Ed |
Posted By: Sitesstables
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2011 at 11:07am
|
Ed- is how I said how I thought you adjust them correct? Unbolt jackem up and push them in? ------------- 1965 D17 Series IV |
Posted By: EdIL
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2011 at 11:36am
| Yes. There are 2 outer square head bolts that have to be removed and 1 inner bolt that needs to be loosened. Loosen tie rod bolt also. If anything is stuck, it usually is the tie rod. a solution of 50/50 acetone and automatic trans fluid along with patience works well. Jack up one side at a time after blocking the other wheels to maintain stability. While it's off of the ground, you might check/grease the spindle, wheel hub and rim. Sounds like it had a rough life under the loader. When finished with the front axle assembly, jack up the tractor front under the bolster (directly below the radiator) until the weight is off of the tires and put some grease in the gap between the bolster pin that is welded to the axle center section and the bolster bushing that the bolster pin fits into. It's probably well worn. If there is a zerk on that model, use it. If, in the future, you take it apart to replace the bushing, that would be a good time to drill a 3/16 inch hole through the bolster pin length ways and drill and tap for 1/4-28 grease zerk from the rear. This makes it MUCH easier to grease this high wear area the next time. Hope This Helps Ed |
Posted By: Burgie
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2011 at 11:49am
|
When you come and see me, I`ll show the easy way without jacking the tractor up. ------------- "Burgie" |
Posted By: wheatbreeder
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2011 at 11:59am
|
the rear tires were power shift take out the locks loosen the cam on the track of the right tire if you want to spin out the tire drive forward and and apply the left brake this will force out just reverse the procedure for the left tire On the D15 not sure about the D17 you could use the powers steering to slide the axle in and out. on the spindle the have a hole the would line up with hole on the axle which you would lock the front wheel from turning the you would turn the steering wheel in the correct direction and this would draw the axle in our out depending on which way the steering wheel was turned Morley ------------- Farm stuff 8050,6690,175,F2,5050,WD |
Posted By: Sitesstables
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2011 at 12:07pm
|
Thanks everybody!!! @Burgie I am off all next week so find a day or time that works for you!! i will hop on over,, At somepoint I need new tierods.. one is welded and the other has a good curve in it.. ------------- 1965 D17 Series IV |
Posted By: Burgie
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2011 at 12:14pm
|
Friday would be good, say in the morning. ------------- "Burgie" |
Posted By: Sitesstables
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2011 at 12:21pm
|
Will get with you next week! Burgie you have any pics of your stuff?? I am so bored in my office today.. Plus when these big storms going to hit?? ------------- 1965 D17 Series IV |
Posted By: Burgie
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2011 at 12:26pm
|
I`d have to send them e-mail. The storms start to night, I think. ------------- "Burgie" |
Posted By: Sitesstables
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2011 at 2:06pm
|
My email is mailto:revsites@yahoo.com - revsites@yahoo.com
We were with out power for 2 days hopefully will not happen again tonight ------------- 1965 D17 Series IV |
Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2011 at 9:42pm
| Check the tops of the steering arms, top of spindle, for a hole. If there is a hole there you can adjust the front with the steering wheel. Remove the bolt from the single hole in the axle and drop it in the hole in the arm. loosen the bolt in the slot and the tie rod, then turn the steering wheel. If it'd not rusted together, the wheel will move. Bob |
Posted By: Brian G. NY
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2011 at 10:26pm
I guess the key words here are "if its not rusted together". LOL
Those advertising films put out by A-C made it look real easy;
'course they were brand spankin' new tractors.
|
Chalmersbob wrote:Posted By: HagerAC
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2011 at 12:11am
|
No jacks needed with the Roll-Shift front axle.
------------- 30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52 |