Does anybody rebuild D Series Fuel gauges
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=136536
Printed Date: 27 Apr 2024 at 7:15am
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Topic: Does anybody rebuild D Series Fuel gauges
Posted By: coggonobrien
Subject: Does anybody rebuild D Series Fuel gauges
Date Posted: 23 Mar 2017 at 6:38pm
| Mine aesthically is in great shape but there is something wrong internally. I know Djs has great accurate gauges but figured if I could rebuild cheaper I would go that way. I'd probably buy parts and do it myself. |
Replies:
Posted By: AaronSEIA
Date Posted: 23 Mar 2017 at 6:41pm
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What is it doing? Simple gear drive. I'd bet the float has come loose. Mine did that. Had to pull it out and re crimp the little tabs that hold it on the end of the rod. DJS sells a new float and gasket. Original float was cork and may have dissolved. AaronSEIA |
Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 23 Mar 2017 at 8:47pm
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Agree with Aaron. Take it out and look it over. 80% of the time the problem will be with the cork float sliding up and down the rod. Check to see that the gears at the pivot mesh smoothly. I have also heard of the magnet getting de-energized but have never had that problem on any of mine.
------------- '49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080 |
Posted By: Ranse
Date Posted: 23 Mar 2017 at 9:53pm
| As Aaron said, it's a simple gear drive. Take it out and if the needle moves when you move the rod up and down then it's probably ok, you just need a new float. I used a cork out of a wine bottle and it didn't work (too small). You need a cork about an inch and a half long and about and inch and a quarter in diameter. That's about the size of the original. DJ's also sells just the float, they look to be plastic to me, but I say they would work fine. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2017 at 5:52am
|
No sense wasting time with a cork float, when a new neoprene float for a Model A Ford works great and costs $4.95. I have one in my D17.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2017 at 6:21am
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$4.95 ?? ouch !!! I just cut a float in half from a Cavalier that was being scrapped. Now TWO of my D-14s have working gas gauges! Yup you can call me cheap, frugal, thrifty..... whatever... but here's some early morning math... $4.95 US$ is $6.61 CDN ADD to that 13% TAXES and your 4.95 is my $7.49 !! Canuck Jay ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: corbinstein
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2017 at 6:23am
| Buy it on Ebay, no taxes..... YET! LOL |
Posted By: TimNearFortWorth
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2017 at 8:40am
|
Use petroleum rated material from a welding supply store for gasket. Easy to cut with heavy shears, seals up great and have one each on diesel and gas done a few years ago, still no leaks. If memory serves, 10 x 12" "roll" of material cost me about 10-12.00 and I have plenty left for any repairs on other units in-future. |
Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2017 at 8:50pm
Jay, it's not cheap.......it is FRUGAL.... I know, I am too... I'd a used marshmallows if they would stand up to fuel.......
------------- "Allis-Express" 19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2017 at 8:53pm
|
I had one on my D-17 that when you lifted the arm, the gears worked perfectly, but the gauge would just spin wildly. Me being ......er um.....frugal, I though I could take it apart to see what was wrong and fix it. Well long story short.........I fixed it for good. It'll never work again. Bought a good one from Rick.
------------- "Allis-Express" 19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2017 at 8:54pm
| Paint em with shellac Ted. |
Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2017 at 10:15pm
|
No Steve, it wasn't a problem with the float. It was that the needle would just spin where ever it wanted to go. I'm guessing it was a problem with the magnet? Well, when I was taking it apart, you know how things go..........one LITTLE piece went SOMEPLACE in the shop, in the proximity of the drill press. You ever seen a clean floor around a drill press?  And THAT is how it got fixed for good..... ------------- "Allis-Express" 19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
Posted By: coggonobrien
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2017 at 1:13pm
| I will have to double check mine but If I recall correctly I can raise and lower the float arm and the needle does not move. |
Posted By: Travis2766
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2017 at 10:02pm
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Any tips on how to get the gauge off with out breaking the screws? ------------- 190XT Series III, D17 Series IV, D15 Series II, All Crop 66 and a whole mess of equipment. |
Posted By: TimNearFortWorth
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2017 at 6:22am
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Used a large long handled screwdriver with four sided shaft on last one I did. Soak, soak, soak with your favorite juice down behind the gauge may help also. With a Crescent wrench on the long handled screwdriver (through the steering wheel), stand on the platform so you can try downward force to keep from jumping out of the slots on the fasteners. Some can be a bear to get out. |
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2017 at 6:43am
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These screws are a fine thread so be careful, have PATIENCE... Use a TIGHT fitting screwdriver ! That worked for 3 of them for me, the 4th I used a new ,tight bit in a 1/4" rachet, that way bit was square and firm in the slot. 1st thing to do, TIGHTEN the screw ,just a tad 2nd, try unscrewing it If ANY resistance is felt( getting snug..) repeat 1,2,1,2,1,2 until it comes out. Yes it'll take some time BUT it'll come out in the end I'm 4 for 4, 16 screws out....must have done something right , cause I am NOT that lucky !! Jay ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: Clay
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2017 at 8:04am
|
I'm with Jay. His method works. This method works well on corrodes screws on aircraft also. However, I uses a battery operated auto-hammer.
With the help of an assistant: 1/4" box end wrench Long, common (flat blade) screw driver tip [the kind which can be chucked into a drill motor] Battery operated auto-hammer. Insert the screw driver blade into the screw slot. Using the 1/4" box end wrench, apply pressure to the hex on the screw driver. Have the assistant apply the auto-hammer to the end of the screw driver shaft. This method works well on corroded screws on aircraft also. Note: I have a Ryobi but the Craftsman NEXTEC Hammerhead Auto-Hammer is just as good, if not slightly better. |
Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2017 at 8:12am
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I agree with Jay. TIGHTEN the screw (just slightly-get it to move) or bolt of anything you want to take out. I have done this on any bolts or nuts or machine screws I want to get out. You are using GOOD threads to get it in motion. If you try to spin them out, there is usually some rust or gunk on the threads that are sticking out and this is what breaks them off. ------------- "Allis-Express" 19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |