Penetrating oil

A friend has a stuck engine and I've seen on the forum a recipe for home made penetrating oil. I believe it was made with transmission fluid and acetone, correct me if I'm wrong. Does anybody know the ratio of the two or the recipe so to speak? Thanks!

37 WC 49 WF 53 WD 67 D15

50/50acetone ATF. HTH God Bless.

When you find yourself in a hole,PUT DOWN THE SHOVEL!!!

Or just get a few cans of PB Blaster.

Mark

B10 Allis, 917 Allis, 7116 Simplicity, 7790 Simplicity Diesel,
GTH-L Simplicity

Ignorance is curable-----stupidity is not.

This was from an OLD post on this site

http://allischalmers.com/forum/forum_view.asp?mid=905618&mtop=1105618&mtext1=&morder=pdate&page=1&mnext=-1

Oil test posted on another site.

Penetrating Oils Compared

Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results!

*They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.*

*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*

None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ............. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench .. 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

*The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone*
*Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.*

I like Kroil but I also like PB Blaster, seem to be very similar. As to stuck engines, in the seventies we used Rislone, poured it directly in cylinders and let it set, took a few days but a little patience and the engines would just come loose, it breaks rust and carbon deposit bonds to the piston and cylinder walls. Have not had the need to use it for some time.

Edited by DMiller - 16 Sep 2011 at 12:00pm

For freeing stuck engines, I mix a 3-way of acetone, diesel/kero, and hydraulic fluid... my ace-in-hole, is a quartet of sparkplugs that the cores have been busted out, and some 1/4" pipe nipples welded to 'em... with quick-disconnects to a 4-way manifold and a pressure regulator... I put anywhere from 4-15psi on all four cylinders, but first I pop the head off, vacuum out any crud, usually take an abrasive-impregnated nylon bristle brush on cordless drill to the cylinders to break any crud free, vacuum it again, clean and lap all the valves, grease the head gasket and put it all back together with the rockers loose (valves all closed)... then I let air pressure 'help' the oil get down through the rings. It's the best tactic I've found for most 'stuck-from-sitting' situations, especially on sleeveless engines and stuff that's just plain old unobtanium. When you pull the dipstick and smell acetone, you know it's workin' it's way through.

I'm sold on the 50/50 Acetone/ATF. Put stuck parts in pan last night, early AM they were free like new. I will try the other formula for testing.

Personally, I think Kroil is the best, but it is expensive.

Acetone/ATF works ok, but there are two disadvantages. It separates (Acetone settles to the bottom) and the acetone evaporates quite quickly if it is left out in the open. Evaporation isn't a problem inside a cylinder when you use a spark plug or an air fitting.

I use PB Blaster for most stuff, unless it's something that I think is going to be really tough, then I use Kroil. I just bought a case of Kroil (12 cans). It should last me the rest of my life.

If I remember correctly from the original post on the 50/50 mixture, it would not work with synthetic ATF.

D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446

We had WD-40 , Yield , Kroil , etc at work . Maint guys all seemed to prefer Kroil . Hard to find around here but I recently did . Think it was about $12 for a 10 oz spray can . Thanks !!

If you put acetone in a plastic bottle, it won't evaporate; it will eat right through the plastic bottle.

I will stick with JB 80.

WF owner wrote:

If you put acetone in a plastic bottle, it won't evaporate; it will eat right through the plastic bottle.

Definitely NOT true. We've had a squeeze bottle of pure Acetone in the lab for 10 years now. SOME plastics, probably, Styrofoam DEFINITELY (in seconds), but it surely can be done.

I had to go to 'metal can' with my acetone and auto tranny fluid. wouldn't even last a year! best thing i found for stuck pistons in hydrogen peroxide! cheap, readily available and it's worked better then anything for me!

AC from the start of my families farming career till the end!

womens finger nail polish remover is basically acetone.... in small plastic bottles.

Like them all, but love the "B"s.

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