B Questions

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          What is the valve on the manifold for? Is this the right cutout for this tractor? And what do I have with the starting system? I have I believe a light switch for the kill switch and a push button to start it. I assume someone put the solenoid on to replace the starter switch. This is still a 6v -ground. Hope I kinda explained it.

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mdm1 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Onalaska, WI Points: 2592	Post Options Post Reply Quote mdm1 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: B Questions Posted: 23 Nov 2017 at 1:12pm
	What is the valve on the manifold for? Is this the right cutout for this tractor? And what do I have with the starting system? I have I believe a light switch for the kill switch and a push button to start it. I assume someone put the solenoid on to replace the starter switch. This is still a 6v -ground. Hope I kinda explained it.
	Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!

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DiyDave Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 50478	Post Options Post Reply Quote DiyDave Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 Nov 2017 at 1:20pm
	valve above carb is the emergency milker vacuum system...

B26240 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 21 Nov 2009 Location: mn Points: 3860	Post Options Post Reply Quote B26240 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 Nov 2017 at 1:24pm
	Valve on intake manifold looks different than other ones I have seen usually they have a male end that you can slide a small hose on to run milking machine when electric power went out. I have also seen a guy use it to spray starting fluid direct to aid cold weather starting ( I do not recomend doing so ) Starter should have pull rod to activate not a selonoid.

drobCA Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 20 Jun 2017 Location: Perris, CA Points: 292	Post Options Post Reply Quote drobCA Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 Nov 2017 at 1:47pm
	I think your valve and my "whatever" in the same port are just something the previous owner used to replace a lost plug. 1941 B
	3 Ford 8N's I loan to neighbors, but the '52CA, '41B and little B1 I do not.

steve(ill) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 77594	Post Options Post Reply Quote steve(ill) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 Nov 2017 at 1:57pm
	the box on the generator looks more like a voltage regulator. Originally you had a "cut out box" with two wires, and the light switch had a resistor to assist in current control.. The voltage regulator with 3 wires is trying to control the voltage and the current flow.. no light switch resistor needed... not original. the solenoid by the starter is also after market. You push the button ( like a truck or newer tractor) and the solenoid is energized and pulls in the contact to connect the BIG wires from the battery to the starter motor.......... that works fine as long as you have the switch on the starter motor engaged CONSTANTLY, or removed and install a STUD in its place....... what is the wire to the starter connected to ??
	Like them all, but love the "B"s.

drobCA Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 20 Jun 2017 Location: Perris, CA Points: 292	Post Options Post Reply Quote drobCA Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 Nov 2017 at 2:57pm
	might be nice to know what year, but like Steve says there's been a lot of "adaptation". what's your goal - to make it into a runner and use it or to approach an "as delivered" condition? my "tractor No." just ahead of the gear shift is unreadably faint - and I forgot how I did get a year for it. maybe by dating all the original parts on it.
	3 Ford 8N's I loan to neighbors, but the '52CA, '41B and little B1 I do not.

mdm1 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Onalaska, WI Points: 2592	Post Options Post Reply Quote mdm1 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 Nov 2017 at 7:00pm
	The year is 1944. I want to clean this mess up. If I change to a cutout I assume I will need to go with a key on off and a light switch. That is how my WD-45 is set up. Is there any other option as I don't have lights? As far as the stater goes I don't mind having it set up this way but it just looks cobbled as it is. It does start each time. The tractor has some other issues but I don't have a time line to do all of it as I don't really plan to have this a working tractor at this time.
	Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!

Bill Long Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Bel Air, MD Points: 4556	Post Options Post Reply Quote Bill Long Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 Nov 2017 at 9:35pm
	It was normal for a B power unit engine to have the valve above the carburetor. It was used when the engine was flooded and needed a burst of air to start the engine. Yes, some had used the vacuum from the tractor to operate the milking machines when power went out. However, milking operations were usually handled by a bigger engine with more powerful vacuum generation. Could it be that you engine was taken from a power unit operation. Would work and do a good job. Hope this does not deter you from bringing this B back to life. Look forward to seeing another of my favorites in action again. Good Luck! Bill Long

Ken in Texas Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Henderson, TX Points: 5919	Post Options Post Reply Quote Ken in Texas Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 Nov 2017 at 11:30pm
	I'm with Bill on the manifold valve. Using it for operating Milking Machines during power outages is mostly BS. Like Bill says it helped start a flooded engine.by giving the manifold a shot of fresh air. This procedure of using the valve is well documented in many AC Operating Manuals

steve(ill) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 77594	Post Options Post Reply Quote steve(ill) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 24 Nov 2017 at 7:55am
	md.......... the way the charge system works is the "G" terminal from the generator runs thru the "cut out" switch and then to the battery. That is the output... To control the amps or current output, the "F" wire on the generator was run to the lights switch and connected to a resistor which then went to "ground" .... that completed the charge circuit. When you put the lights on, the resistor was bypassed and the F wire was directly grounded, making the generator charge about 8 amps instead of 2-3 amps... If you want to install a "cut out" on the "G" side, and not use the original light switch, then all you need is to put a resistor in the "F" wire and connect it to ground. You will get the low charge current all the time. That is OK since you have no light. I don't know the RESISTANCE of the resistor off hand. Someone will post, or I can look it up later.
	Like them all, but love the "B"s.

Gerald J. Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hamilton Co, IA Points: 5636	Post Options Post Reply Quote Gerald J. Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 24 Nov 2017 at 8:35am
	The generator without regulator will always overcharge the battery. The light switch and added resistor allows the operator to reduce the charging rate once its detected the battery is nearly full charged by the bubbling of the electrolyte. If the current isn't backed off properly, the battery will need water often, probably daily if the tractor is worked all day. The relay type magnetic regulator is a step forward in operator convenience and improved battery life. A solid state regulator with a big diode for cutout is another step forward in improved battery life. While I was on active duty I wrecked the engine in my '64 VW and bought a low mileage '68 engine at a junk yard. The engine I took out had a 6 volt generator with magnetic regulator and relay cutout. I had lab quality ammeter and voltmeter mounted on the dash. The relay cutout drew up to 10 amps from the battery before it disconnected the generator. The new engine had a 12 volt generator and the mounts were not interchangeable, so I built a solid state voltage regulator and with the diode cutout got rid of that reverse current loading the battery. The improved voltage tolerance and the elimination of the generator loading the battery essentially doubled the battery life. The internal regulators in alternators work that well too. Gerald J.

mdm1 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Onalaska, WI Points: 2592	Post Options Post Reply Quote mdm1 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 27 Nov 2017 at 6:31am
	Decided to put it back to the original 6v charge system for now. May convert to 12v down the road. As far as the starting goes I may just leave the push button and just clean up the appearance some.
	Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!