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53 WD updated wiring diagram?

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Leon B MO View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Leon B MO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 53 WD updated wiring diagram?
    Posted: 23 Mar 2017 at 9:21pm
Getting ready to wire the WD. I went with a 1 wire altenator, starter with mounted solenoid and 4 pole key switch (someone put a large hole in the dash) from a D 17. This is how I think the wiring goes, if I'm wrong, let me know. As you can tell, I'm no artist.
Thanks for any info.
Leon B MO


Uncle always said "Fill the back of the shovel and the front will take care of itself".
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Gerald J. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gerald J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Mar 2017 at 9:32pm
That's pretty much it. Make sure the wires from the alternator to the ammeter and from the ammeter to the battery post on the starter solenoid are sturdy enough to carry the alternator current. You don't want to overheat those wires.

You left out the wire from the coil to the distributor points.

A single wire alternator usually can be wired to excite the field from the ignition circuit so you don't have to spin the alternator so fast to get it to start charging.

I put a 1 wire alternator on my gas 4020 and from the auto electric shop I bought the smallest diameter pulley available to spin it faster. It probably turns nearly three times as fast as the crankshaft. I added an ammeter before I went to the alternator so I can detect its charging. Takes about 1650 crankshaft RPM to get it starting charging with a 5 or 7" pulley on the crankshaft and a 2-1/4" pulley on the alternator. The stock generator 3-1/2" or 4" pulley probably won't turn it fast enough to start charging.

The added wiring is simple, a wire from the excitation terminal to the ignition post on the ignition switch with a few ohm resistor, a diode, or a lamp to keep the alternator from back feeding the ignition circuit and preventing engine shut down.

There is usually another wire on the one wire alternator from the voltage sample post to the main output post so the voltage regulator has a voltage sample to regulate.

Gerald J.
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Leon B MO View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Leon B MO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Mar 2017 at 10:01pm
Thanks for the quick response, I left the coil to points wire out just to simplify, 
I was going to use 10 gauge wire  from alt to ammeter and from battery to ign. switch.
Alt says it will self energize at 800 rpm's so I wasn't going to worry about the 2nd wire. There are 2 more terminals on the alt but they are not marked as to which one is for energizing the alt.
Leon B MO
Uncle always said "Fill the back of the shovel and the front will take care of itself".
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Steve in NJ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2017 at 9:57am
Most one wire Alternators can be wired for a three wire which is much easier on the engine. You don't have to rev the engine up with a three wire. If you want to wire it for the three wire, the No. 1 on the Alternator plug runs to the IGNITION post on the Ignition switch. The No. 2 wire is you voltage sense wire which being there isn't much to power up on a WD/WD45, you can just loop the voltage sense wire to the output post of the Alternator and it will sense outgoing current from the Alternator. This way when you turn your key to the ON position, it sends 12Vs to the VR turning it on. No reason to rev the engine to start the charging sequence. Start the Tractor and after 400-450 rpm, it will be already charging. Easy. If your wiring up a 12V system on your Tractor, visit our website before you do. There's lottsa' information there for wiring up your Tractor and the do's and don'ts so you wire it correctly...  Have fun!
Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Gerald J. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gerald J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2017 at 10:17am
10 gauge gets warm at 30 amps and most automotive alternators can put out 60 or more amps. 6 or 8 would be better. I used 10 gauge high temperature wire (silicone and fiberglass insulation) on my 4020 and the resistance of the wire limits the peak charging current to about 30 amps with a 60 amp alternator. For sure the better voltage regulation of the alternator has significantly increased battery life.

Gerald J.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2017 at 10:19am
Many one wire alternators exhibit a bit of battery leak-back when the engine isn't running. The battery will discharge over a period of time if the engine isn't run. If you're not planning on using the tractor for any period it's a good idea to disconnect the battery.
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Leon B MO View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Leon B MO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2017 at 10:46am
Yes, it is 12 volt 35 amp alternator, which is plenty for ignition and a pair of lights. How do I determine which of the two terminals on mu new alt is for energizing the alt? I don't want to fry it before I even use it.
Leon B Mo
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DougS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2017 at 3:12pm
Originally posted by Leon B MO Leon B MO wrote:

Yes, it is 12 volt 35 amp alternator, which is plenty for ignition and a pair of lights. How do I determine which of the two terminals on mu new alt is for energizing the alt? I don't want to fry it before I even use it.
Leon B Mo

I don't know which model of alternator you have, but usually the exciter terminal is labeled as "I" or "IG" or the "1" terminal in the case of the 10SI alternator.
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