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CAdon 
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Joined: 14 Mar 2012
Location: southern CA
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 Topic: CA split part way
Posted: 29 Mar 2012 at 2:54pm |
finally splitting 52CA (lotsa removals & pre-paint prep along the way) and something doesn't look right. i seem to be pulling out a three foot driveshaft as i go. should i unbolt the clutch and push it back into the bell housing first or continue as is? btw threaded end of push rod from the clutch pedal was loose, just pulled right out before separation. thread end shows rub wear at 45 degrees but looks like enough thread to be still usable.
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52 CA, 41 B and a little B1 oh, yeah... and an 8N ford snuck in there, too.
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wjohn
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Posted: 29 Mar 2012 at 3:08pm |
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On the C tractors at least, the other end of that driveshaft is a splined female end and slides onto the input shaft to the transmission. There's a cotter pin that holds it in place. I think your cotter pin is missing or broken, hence it sliding out to the front. I think the torque tube has to come off to do replace the cotter pin, but take everything I'm saying with a grain of salt because I haven't been into a CA before. Someone will come along with pictures and better advice. If it's the same as a C it's a simple job.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Dakota Dave
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Posted: 29 Mar 2012 at 3:12pm |
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just pull it out of the clutch and push it back in. It might be tough to get back on the splins on the front of the transmition input. It's suposed to have a cotter pin holding it on but alot of times you'll fond the remains laying in the bottom of the torque tube. you don't realy need the cotterpin it does keep the shaft in place if your having trouble lining the clutch back up. to install the pin just take the four bolts holding the torque tube to the trany and slide apart a few inches make sure the crossdrilled hole lines up and put one in. Have fun.
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Dakota Dave
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Posted: 29 Mar 2012 at 3:16pm |
It's the same as a C. the very early C's had a Ujoint back thier I put a non Ujoint on in it's place. I thought it came from a CA. the rest of the parts I got in that truckload were from a CA.
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Chuck(ONT)
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Posted: 29 Mar 2012 at 3:22pm |
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Try a strap wrench on the shaft and work it back/forth to loosen its hold.
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Never take life too seriously.
Nobody gets out alive anyway!
1C 1 WD45 1 AC180
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CAdon
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Posted: 29 Mar 2012 at 3:27pm |
thanks, john & dave. i was SURE that didn't look right. if the shaft doesn't come out of the clutch easily, i think i'll unbolt it from the flywheel so i can get the engine half out of the way and get some working room. clutch housing shows wear damage anyway, so needs to be replaced. right now rear section is supported under the torque tube, so i'll hope i can get the drive shaft to return to it's rightful position without separating the torque tube requiring rebracing. there's always something you didn't count on, huh?! if this wasn't so much fun i guess i'd hate it.
and chuck - yep will do after shooting in some 50/50 acetone/atf on the spline. that stuff (learned on here) has definitely gained my respect.
Edited by CAdon - 29 Mar 2012 at 3:30pm
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52 CA, 41 B and a little B1 oh, yeah... and an 8N ford snuck in there, too.
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Dakota Dave
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Posted: 29 Mar 2012 at 4:48pm |
If the clutch doesn't slide freely on the spline you will have problems. So clrean that shaft real well. The clutch disk should float easyly on the shaft . It must move every time you push the pedal in or it won't disengage completly for shifting.
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CAdon
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Posted: 29 Mar 2012 at 9:16pm |
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and... when i rotated the flywheel i discovered about a third of the way around gear teeth are worn excessively. explains the wear on the loose clutch rod, doesn't it. and also why the starter was just spinning. oh well, nobody promised me easy on this - nor free either. it will all get done.
Edited by CAdon - 29 Mar 2012 at 9:24pm
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52 CA, 41 B and a little B1 oh, yeah... and an 8N ford snuck in there, too.
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Dick L
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Posted: 29 Mar 2012 at 9:42pm |
 CAdon wrote:
thanks, john & dave. i was SURE that didn't look right. if the shaft doesn't come out of the clutch easily, i think i'll unbolt it from the flywheel so i can get the engine half out of the way and get some working room. clutch housing shows wear damage anyway, so needs to be replaced. right now rear section is supported under the torque tube, so i'll hope i can get the drive shaft to return to it's rightful position without separating the torque tube requiring rebracing. there's always something you didn't count on, huh?! if this wasn't so much fun i guess i'd hate it.
and chuck - yep will do after shooting in some 50/50 acetone/atf on the spline. that stuff (learned on here) has definitely gained my respect. |
You will need to split it at the tramission to pin the drive shaft so that it does not slide forward and stick again like it is now. It can not be stuck real bad unless in splitting now has placed the shaft in a cocked position in the clutch plate. Which is likely. You should be able to place some vise grips on the shaft and tap it back while wigging the engine. Taking the bolts out of the pressure will take the bind out and the end of the drive will only be in the pilot bushing. If the back of the engine is high or low it could still be stuck or cocked in the pilot bushing. It looks as though the pressure plate is broken.
Edited by Dick L - 29 Mar 2012 at 9:45pm
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Eldon (WA)
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Posted: 29 Mar 2012 at 9:55pm |
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Yeah I think we can see why your clutch wasn't working......
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ALLIS EXPRESS!
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CAdon
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Posted: 30 Mar 2012 at 10:00am |
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no inspection plate on the underside, so it was just a debris collection hole. and yep, dick, already decided against a half vast repair job. might as well be thorough and not kick myself later for taking short cuts. delighted to discover back end still intact, so i just need to replace clutch assembly and ring gear. uh... might even clean up inside of bell housing a little?!!!
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52 CA, 41 B and a little B1 oh, yeah... and an 8N ford snuck in there, too.
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