Structures 1964 Allis D15 Series II

Thanks. I have a 40x40 econoline cabinet I picked up from a shop going out of business some years back.  I use alum oxide.

Edited by structures - 23 Apr 2014 at 9:33pm

Great job Robert that is some nice work your doing there,yoy will have a super nice 15 when your done,thanks for all the nice photos,good luck,i just got off of my 1511 loading 6 loads of manure,besides the odor I just love this tractor.Keep up the great work and it will be done in no time.John

apply neversieze compound to 'em, now that you have the eccentrics free...

I just found this post. Great restore project! Your doing a great job fabing up parts. When your done you won't regret taking the extra time to do things right. I'm currently finishing up a WD project. If the eccentrics are like the WDs. Some people have suggested putting them in a vise and using heat on the casting. Might try an air hammer on pins. That has worked well for me. Lots of penetrating oil & air to get "any" loose debris out of there. Keep up the good work. Great post.
Ray W.

Structures,
 Keep up the good work. There are so many parts on these and at this stage some will need more attention than others. Looks like you enjoy the work your doing. You will probably meet a lot of new friends along the way as you get the spare parts you need to bring it back to working order.
 Thanks for posting the pictures too.
Regards,
 Chris

I am enjoying this!

Worked on the cleaner last night too.  I got the nut off but twisted the supports up, so I started remaking them.

You mentioned difficulty getting the wing nut off the air cleaner.  No wonder!  I do not see any penetrating oil on there anywhere!  For something sitting outside that long, you should be oiling the hell out of every nut and bolt.  It will make your life much easier.

Don't be in such a hurry to get that engine loose.  Let the oil do its thing.  When you see it dripping out the bottom of the engine, keep oiling it!  I had to soak my D14 engine for over 3 months - that was just to take it apart (not try to get loose).

When you get the tractor restored you probably will be looking at a new set of rubber. Two years ago I put new firestones on the fronts and new 14.9 x 26 Titans on the rear. Best investment I made because I feed two big bales every other day with my D15 II.

I'll add one thing.  Take pictures of how it looks coming apart, and mark every component for order and direction, and take pics of the marks, too.  Them cell phone cameras are mighty handy in the shop!

First of all- it's a project with family history, therefore, it has connected soul. Next, it's fairly complete, and doesn't appear to have any blazingly expensive-looking defects... i.e., I don't see any cracks in major castings.

Cracked float bowl suggests that moisture may have gotten into the carb and froze it. That muffler type has a weakness, in that the upper side can rot through and allow rain to funnel into the engine, so you may be in for some hard work.

I agree with Tim on this one- personally would NOT bother putting a wrench on the crank or soaking this one, because removal of the engine inevitably within the progress path of that tractor... it WILL happen, because you need to get into everything else as well. If you bite the bullet NOW, it will save you substantial heartache later.

I'd get the tractor into the shop, on stands, pull it down, and as you do, make a first-check assessment of each component, and take good notes. Get the engine out, yank the head and pan, and figure out just how serious it is. Do same for clutch, power director, transmission, rearend, brakes, and final drives. There's gonna be water, oil glop, and plenty of mice and mud-wasp mess to clear out.

Once you have it torn down, make a list of every part that needs to be replaced, and every component that needs to be refurbished, then methodically go through each section. You may find that some serious housekeeping and some new gaskets and seals will help some things, and you may find elsewhere clues to the reason it was 'parked'.

But that's not all- the act of being parked for one reason, often subjects your patient to other conditions and forces which can render the machine at-risk for future damage if proper attention isn't taken prior to running it again.

Frequently, the unforseen problem turns out to be caused by extended damage that would have been averted if a thorough cleanout and inspection had been performed.

Once you've had it open enough to check EVERYTHING out, you can determine the scope of what you'll have to invest (both time and money), and know what kinds of things you'll need to acquire.

When searching for parts, it's best to carry a list of ALL that you need, because
1) find many of the parts you need at the same source, and
2) will save you trips later and
3) correct parts on hand, allow you to tackle three or four different facets of the project in a given allotment of shop time. You won't be stalled by the lack of 1 engine item, because you can apply your remaining shop time to say... reassembling the final drives.

Once you have a good grasp for the whole machine, make your decision to either pursue, or just clean and slap it back together for future attention... whatever your economics holds. If you don't, what will most likley happen, is that an unforseen problem will bring progress to a halt, and force you to roll it back out into the field, and leave it lay in pieces.   

Interesting,,......... keep it up!

I would first have a good chat with your dad concerning why he really parked it, then seriously consider rebuilding the engine. Was it a gear jumper, and how bad? If it has sat outside for years, I would not be inclined to "soak" it and try to pull it around in an attempt to break it free.

D17 should have 28" rim. D15 26". I had a 15II. I put Combine tires and wheels on it. A GREAT TRACTOR! I want another one.

I bought Grandpas 1937 WC, it was rusted and had a cracked block. I gave $1,000 which was too much but it was Grandpas and I wanted it.