How does a governor work on engine start up

When i turn up the throttle lever the governor does not move the carb linkage to make carb give more gas to intake. Is this just when starting the engine ? The lever on governor seems to work with the spring pressure on the lever, but lever does not activate when I turn up the throttle. I dont have much experience with governors as you can all tell. thanks

A governor is an rpm limiter. It trys to keep the butterfly from opening when the engine is running. It takes pressure on the governor spring to over come the force of the governor weights to increase the rpm's. When the engine is not running it should open the butterfly because there is no force from the governor weights.

I am not sure what you think is a problem by your description but then I am a little slow when deciphering other peoples speak when I can not see their hands.  (:^D 

When I pull the throttle wide open the linkage going from the gov to the carb does not move, so we manualy moved the linkage and it still wont start.

With the engine not running the linkage [must] move freely when you move the throttle lever to open and close the butterfly. If that is not the case you need to repair it to where it does before going to other problems. It seems that you have other problems as well.
No fuel pump in this type of carburetor so when the butterfly is open it takes vacuum from the engine turning over to draw fuel from the carburetor  into the firing chamber.

On a B,C,CA you disconnect the carb linkage at the governor arm.  With the throttle handle wide open and the carb butterfly wide open, the throttle arms should be bent so that there is approximately 1/16 of an inch between the throttle linkage and governor arm, ie you will have to pull/flex the governor arm slightly back to get the carb linkage/arm to slip into it.  I believe this to be true with the larger tractors but someone else can confirm. 

To see if you are getting fuel to the cylinders, turning it over/w choke on for a couple of revolutions and removing a spark plug should show/smell fuel on the electrode, if its dry you probably are not getting fuel

worked in shop still cant get going cleaned carb all valves and holes are clear, turned flywheel to find tdc stamp all i could find is F 25 degrees and then not far from there another line . I realined the distributor rotor to no1 first using F25 degree line, then I tried it on the next mark I could at least get the engine to backfire but thats it  I also adjusted the distributor about a quarter inch both ways to advance and retard but nothing I would think it would at least fire.

From what you said about backfiring, it sounds like you have the timming out 180 degrees. 

So the timing line is the  line that has nothing stamped next to it I thought it would have TDC stamped by it,ok but what does the line with the F and also it says 25 with the degree sign next to it , what is that line for? just wondering if that also has something to do with the timing.

boscoe, you are on the right track, but you need to start eliminating things to make sure everything is right.  Gary has it right in that you need to make sure you have the timing right.  If I remember right there should be 2 lines, one that says TDC and the other F.  The line you need to worry about when timing is the F mark.  You will line the F mark up in the opening and then line up the number 1 plug wire with the timing lug, either in the mag or distributor.  If it still will not run and you think you are not getting gas, just take out the plugs and put a little gas in each cylinder and see if it will run for a short time that way, then you will know if your getting gas or not.