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sparky 
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Joined: 13 May 2011
Location: So. Indiana
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 Topic: Splitting Stands
Posted: 10 Sep 2012 at 6:45pm |
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I'm needing some pictures? ideas? for splitting stands for AC's. I am going to split my CA for the engine clutch and again for the main trans seal. I would like to build one that would also work for my 175 diesel if needed in the future.
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It's the color tractor my grandpa had!
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CTuckerNWIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
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Posted: 10 Sep 2012 at 6:55pm |
This is what I made for my WC worked great for moving the front around to get it out of my way. 2 pieces of channel iron, a turn-buckle with a couple bolts and a K car rear spindle. And the turn-buckle makes the height adjustable  
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David Maddux
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Posted: 10 Sep 2012 at 7:08pm |
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That is pretty slick Charlie. Dave.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 10 Sep 2012 at 8:25pm |
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If I had to split a 190 or sompin heavy, I would maybe beef up the pivot point a little and center, or double up the turn-buckle. I'm not sure what K car spindles would handle for weight so they could be replaced with somethin heavier too.
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CAdon
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Joined: 14 Mar 2012
Location: southern CA
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Posted: 10 Sep 2012 at 9:36pm |
so that's lena in her underwear? looks very handy - easy rolling anywhere even on dirt.
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52 CA, 41 B and a little B1 oh, yeah... and an 8N ford snuck in there, too.
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DaveKamp
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Joined: 12 Apr 2010
Location: LeClaire, Ia
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Posted: 11 Sep 2012 at 2:04am |
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I need to build some too... I'll make TWO sets- one that holds the back of the frontend, another that holds the front of the rearend. I'll probably rip the rearend from a Geo Metro, since there's a carcass in the driveway that needs to be dismembered and re-purposed. I like the adjustability concept.
Charlie- is there an advantage to NOT having the two sides coupled together... like... it allows something to be dropped down below the frame or something?
Mine will need to be adaptable to the WCs, WD, D17, and B's... no clue how I'll do it, but I'm certain that several things will happen:
1) I'll spend quite a bit of time contemplating it... probably right up until the time that I actually need it... and then, I'll get it made just a bit later than sensible...
2) I'll spend just a little time building it...
3) I'll spend about twice the time kicking myself for overlooking some really obvious things...
4) I'll change it later...
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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JoeO(CMO)
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Posted: 11 Sep 2012 at 5:56am |
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Dave, I think you're good to go!
Edited by JoeO(CMO) - 11 Sep 2012 at 6:00am
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 11 Sep 2012 at 6:44am |
 DaveKamp wrote:
Charlie- is there an advantage to NOT having the two sides coupled together... like... it allows something to be dropped down below the frame or something?
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The advantages are: less material needed, lighter weight for handling and easier storage. Once I had the frame rails cleaned and primed, I could bolt them back up to the pedestal and bell housing. That's when I made the stands. I needed to be able to work on more than one thing at a time, in case I ran into a snag, and the wheel stands made that possible with limited work area.
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B26240
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Location: mn
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Posted: 11 Sep 2012 at 7:20am |
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Charlie I think thats the best setup i"ve ever seen !! and with two pieces it will work on any width outfit. Also I really like the easy roll concept -- to get room to work on either end.
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Gary in da UP
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
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Posted: 11 Sep 2012 at 1:11pm |
I made wheelie bars for my WC that I can can swap sides to extend forward as splitting stands when needed. I'll post a photo soon of that , I plan to be splitting to install the clutch in a week or so. I may use scaffold casters instead of the wheelie pads if I need more mobility.
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DaveCinIN
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Kouts, IN
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Posted: 11 Sep 2012 at 10:05pm |
Here are the splitting stands that I plan to copy. Maybe just a little heavier.
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DaveCinIN
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Posted: 11 Sep 2012 at 10:11pm |
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DaveKamp
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Location: LeClaire, Ia
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Posted: 12 Sep 2012 at 3:38am |
Thanks for the pix, guys!!! Anybody got s'more? Question- When you split it at the back of the engine, or towards the transmission, obviously the rearend, sitting on tires, becomes a concern of proper support, and unfortunately, stability. Gary's setup illustrated support for situations where the front of the transaxle wants to flip skyward. WHICH tractors need aft support to keep from flipping up, and which ones will flop DOWN? Obviously, this is subject to some variation based on WHAT is being serviced, so perhaps the best way to answer it, is to refer to the specific model, and indicate under which conditions (split location, and service operation) will the rearend be subject to flipping back, or dropping forward... Or would it be easier to just devise a rearend frame that simply sits under the rearend at a high-enough elevation, so that it's being suspended at the same plane as the axle tubes, so the transaxle's center of gravity is essentially BELOW the support point (hence, it WANTS to stay level)?? And as a caveat... the EASY answer is to say "use the overhead hoist"... which, if I was doing a short-term task that didn't involve shufflin' stuff around, would be perfectly fine... however, if I've got two WCs, a WD, and a B in the workshop, I can have all of them split, and on stands... and still have the overhead hoist free to do something other than be a perpetual hanger of tractor parts... 
Edited by DaveKamp - 12 Sep 2012 at 3:40am
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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TexasAllis
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Texas
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Posted: 12 Sep 2012 at 12:09pm |
DaveCinIN wrote:
Here is another set.
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I remember my dads dealership had very similar stands both purchased and shop built. He had two and four wheel versions with two and four risers.
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1944 Allis C
1960 Allis D-17 LP
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MilesGray (CO/KS)
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: CO/KS
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Posted: 12 Sep 2012 at 12:22pm |
When I had my C split fore and aft, the engine was supported by a hoist, the torque tube supported by two stands that we made and the rear drive/PTO rolled back and rested on the drawbar. Once I removed the part that needed replacement (PTO Shaft), I used a Jack to bring the final drive back to level. And thanks again, Steve!
Edited by MilesGray (CO/KS) - 12 Sep 2012 at 12:24pm
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Miles Gray (CO/KS)
5 1938 B's, 1940 B, 1944 WF C, 1948 NF C, Gleaner A, White Top Rotobaler, 1957 IH Golden Jubilee... I'm either a collector, or crazy!
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sparky
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Joined: 13 May 2011
Location: So. Indiana
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Posted: 12 Sep 2012 at 6:35pm |
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Thanks Much To ALL!!!
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It's the color tractor my grandpa had!
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