| Author |
 Topic Search  Topic Options
|
Jacob (WI,ND) 
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Kenmare, ND
Points: 1244
|
 Post Options
 Thanks(0)
 Quote  Reply
 Topic: Need help on WD engine specs.. & Progress on Wayne
Posted: 28 Dec 2010 at 8:56am |
Hi all,
I havn't been around much lately, been too busy with the new house, but I'm home for the holidays and have been working on Wayne (1950 WD) with Dad. We finished removing the radiator and grill (to fix radiator), and removed the head to fix the broken manifold studs (because the manifold gaskets were shot and need replacing, but in the process of removing the manifold, two studs broke) and then clean and inspect all the valves etc... while I'm in there.
All the valves looks good, no burnt ones or anything. And everything is fairly clean, so we'll scrub everything up, and put it all back together once the broken studs are out.
But this is where my allis family comes in, I left all my manuals back in ND, so I don't know the tork specs or patterns on either the head bolts, or the manifold bolts. Could anyone scan that part of the manual for me by any chance?? I'd greatly appreciate it!
Another couple of questions, what is the correct length fan belt again? (written down at home)
How do you all tork down the head bolts (accurately) that are under the head coolant manifold tube part on top of the head (or whatever its called, the part with the thermostat in it) Do you use a crows foot wrench and special tork wrench? Or just "farmers tork" it to "about right" amount? LOL!
And anything else that I might need to know about reassembling the head would be usefull. With any luck, we might have this engine back together and almost running by the end of the week! So exciting!
I'll have to try to remember to take some pics today for you all. Thanks again in advance, this is the difference between fininshing part of this project now or waiting until spring some time.
Edited by Jacob (WI,ND) - 29 Dec 2010 at 6:58pm
|
|
Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
|
 |
|
Sponsored Links
|
|
|
JoeM(GA)
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Cumming,GA
Points: 4517
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 28 Dec 2010 at 9:29am |
here's a link to where you can download my WC shop manual, should be 99 o/o the same info as the WD http://www.mediafire.com/?uezatnhyewmclick the "begin download" in the yellow box and either view or save as you wish hope this helps Joe
|
|
Allis Express North Georgia
41 WC,48 UC Cane,7-G's,
Ford 345C TLB
|
|
Jacob (WI,ND)
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Kenmare, ND
Points: 1244
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 28 Dec 2010 at 11:47am |
 JoeM(GA) wrote:
here's a link to where you can download my WC shop manual, should be 99 o/o the same info as the WD
http://www.mediafire.com/?uezatnhyewm
click the "begin download" in the yellow box and either view or save as you wish
hope this helps
Joe
|
Thanks! This does help, but am I missing it, or does this manual not talk about the head being put back on the block with the tork setting and patteren?? I found the manifold settings in there. 20 lbs.
|
|
Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
|
|
Jacob (WI,ND)
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Kenmare, ND
Points: 1244
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 29 Dec 2010 at 7:52pm |
Hi all
We have been going great guns on Wayne this week, so I figured I would give you all an update.
We have removed the head from the tractor and disassembled it (valves etc...) and drilled out and fixed the two broken manifold studs.
We brought the manifold to the machinist and had it fly cut and already got it back. We made a plate for the side of it, and painted it black since Dad had a part can of stove paint handy.
The other parts are on order and should be here tomorrow (head gasket, manifold gasket, manifold studs, thermostat, fan belt, valve cover gasket.)
We disassembled the water manifold to prep it for the new thermostat, and one of the bolts broke off, so we fixed that too.
We brought the radiator to a new guy this morning. Hopefully it works out ok, since the guy we had do Lil Allis's radiator no longer does it. It's getting hard to find anyone that does.
Tomorrow we are going to lap the valves and reassemble everything to get it ready to put back on the tractor. Hopefully it all goes well. This is our first time lapping valves, so any tips or tricks are welcome.
Here are some pics of the radiator before being fixed, that will have to tie you over until i get some more pics later. (try with out pics, computer aint cooperating)
|
|
Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
|
|
Jacob (WI,ND)
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Kenmare, ND
Points: 1244
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 30 Dec 2010 at 5:18pm |
Hi all,
Things are going good. We got the valves lapped in, they look 100 percent better than what they did before.
The parts came today!
Got the head all cleaned up and blown out, and just got done priming it. We'll paint it after supper.
Got the water manifold cleaned up and assembled with the new thermostat and gasket in place and primed that too.
It all just takes time.... It's a wonder any tractors ever get restored with as much time as it takes. It's been a fun week so far, I wish I had more like it.
|
|
Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
|
|
Jacob (WI,ND)
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Kenmare, ND
Points: 1244
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 31 Dec 2010 at 2:44pm |
Hi again,
The head is painted and valves are assembled in the head. valve cover is cleaned up and primed, muffler is painted (so it looks good for a while, LOL!)
manifold is back on head and things are ready to go back on the block.
Googleing the head torques I found 70 ft lbs for the 1/2" and 25 ft lbs for the 3/8" studs. Anyone disagree with this before we give it a go?
I'll try a pic again, but last night it wouldn't let me post pics....
|
|
Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
|
|
Jacob (WI,ND)
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Kenmare, ND
Points: 1244
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 31 Dec 2010 at 2:48pm |
Yah! Pics worked today, I'll post some more...
The radiator before
|
|
Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
|
|
Steve M C/IL
Orange Level
Joined: 01 Jul 2010
Location: shelbyville IL
Points: 691
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 31 Dec 2010 at 3:34pm |
|
You are correct with the torque's.The fine thd studs on the water ports? I knocked 5 ft/lbs off. If you got a Snap-on offset torque adapter you may get on that front one(with the thermostat hsg apart) but I used the "farmer,about right method". Used 2 open/box hooked together to get about the same length as tork wrench and pull the "same" effort. I definately would retorque cold after a couple hrs run time. Mine went another 20-30 degrees. Don't loosen,just start pattern over. I had to remove rocker shaft to get to bolts but no big deal.Just readjust valves when done cause they're going to be off anyway. Dr Allis says .015 cold and yer done.I agree.Hot usually changes about .002 on ave depending on valve size etc..Mine don't clatter when cold so they aren't too loose. Good luck.
Edited by Steve M C/IL - 31 Dec 2010 at 3:35pm
|
|
