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Codger 
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Joined: 23 Dec 2020
Location: Illinois
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 Posted: 01 Feb 2024 at 5:57pm |
I may be going through much the same here Dave, making valiant attempt to purchase a 2010 F-350 with a blown turbocharger so the cab needs lifted. 6.4ltr engine and full four door cab. Can't justify the cost of relatively new and I can repair this one.
Gets so damned annoying dealing with the shipping morons any longer. Lost two jobs as wasn't able to get to them before the parties bugged out before the severe weather hit. One job got parts for and now need to send them back as task performed in AZ, the other still haven't received anything in the order and it's been canceled.
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A career built on repairing and improving engineering design deficiencies, shortcomings, and failures over 50 years now.
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DMiller
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Hermann, Mo
Points: 29750
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Posted: 01 Feb 2024 at 4:19pm |
Spoke with local postmaster as he is handling my side of the issue where the Cottontown OP is handling the shipper's side, Nothing yet, HOWEVER he noted the dates were as that nasty Ice Storm hit that region after us, he then noted the Truck or Tractor Trailer carrying said parcel likely was wrecked, could possibly have spilled ALL the mail to the ground where TN Highway's Department is often rash in loading ALL the "Trash" from a crash in Dump trucks and hauling to the dump regardless What was spilled.
That stated, have to await 15 WORKING Days, from time of Reports, in our case could be Either as the Accident occurred or when I voiced concerns, either way will be just at TWO MORE Weeks prior to accepting the Priority Mail is permanently lost where either shipper or recipient can apply for the $100 insurance on that $300 worth of engine parts. Will be in touch with Swag Performance that day of end of two weeks, as they will need to contact PO and send me another ALREADY PAID FOR Shipment I never received.
So today I lowered the cab back to the frame where it can sit unattended for next two weeks.
Edited by DMiller - 01 Feb 2024 at 4:20pm
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desertjoe
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Joined: 23 Sep 2013
Location: New mexico
Points: 13361
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Posted: 01 Feb 2024 at 6:41am |
Looking GOOD there, Dave,,definately a labor of love but will be like or even better than new when you finish up,,,  I can relate to your frustration with USPS I have recently had to go thru several OH, OH's with USPS and the resident Post Master does not seem to be very interested in anyone's issues,,,!! I had ordered an item that originated somewhere "Over Yonder" and after getting a ride to see the whole world (two weeks) it finally made it to Austin, Tx and then languished there for 32 days before some "observant" postal employee noticed the package in that cubby hole, pulled it out and sent it on it's way,,,,!! SHEEEESH,,!! Since then,,,I've had my RFID wallet magically get removed from it's plastic shipping bag and bag taped up by USPS with a tag "DELIVERED IN DAMAGED CONDITION",,,,Then,,just yesterday received a box with a "hand sized hole" in the side of box with several loose items rolling around inside. I'm going to take both examples to the Post Master to get his comments and file a claim. Double SHEEESH,,!!
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DMiller
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Hermann, Mo
Points: 29750
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Posted: 01 Feb 2024 at 5:36am |
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Latest and Greatest news USPS distribution center in Nashville TN got weather snarled. My Priority Mail parts shipment is languishing in some bin there and been in that bin since Jan 27. Shipment number updates stopped J28 and absolutely nothing as to support on finding or moving my parcels. Cab hangs as parts go on engine. No idea WHEN or even IF will receive. Have to wait at least a week to have supplier send out a second shipment where they noted Nashville is really bad for this, any excuse to ignore mail.
Edited by DMiller - 01 Feb 2024 at 5:37am
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DMiller
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Location: Hermann, Mo
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Posted: 30 Jan 2024 at 2:22pm |
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340k on the truck, not going that deep for a now 5000mile a year truck. Turbo was leaking, brakes needed work, rust needed updating where the old machine is going to be relegated to Farm Chores here out.
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ACFarmer
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Ohio
Points: 736
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Posted: 30 Jan 2024 at 9:01am |
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I may have missed it somewhere, but depending on how many miles you have on the truck, Id look into refreshing the injectors/hpo system while its easy to get to.
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Making A living everyday farming with and working on Allis Equipment
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DMiller
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Location: Hermann, Mo
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Posted: 28 Jan 2024 at 4:46pm |
The truck as currently sits, too cold to spray so masked up what want paint off of and cleaned up around it. Did Change out the ratchet straps to light Comalong winches. 
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DMiller
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Posted: 28 Jan 2024 at 3:01pm |
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For NG, up to date at $4900+/- a little, and at around 46 hours. Body work will be brutal on hours. Extras so far: Complete Rear Brakes with backing plates/splash shields/rotors/calipers and hubs resealed, New style Silicone Cab mounts, Front Sway Bar to frame links, ALL Park Brake cables into cab, Front Brake hoses to Calipers, Ford OEM Vacuum Lines loom for engine compartment close to $1800 above plans.
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DMiller
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Posted: 28 Jan 2024 at 1:26pm |
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Thanks all. And yes NG I am tracking the hours so far.
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NEVER green
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Joined: 28 Feb 2013
Location: MN.
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Posted: 28 Jan 2024 at 9:55am |
Keeping track of your time??
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2-8050 1-7080 6080 D-19 modelE & A 7040 R50
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
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Posted: 28 Jan 2024 at 8:54am |
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lookin good Dave.... BOY, that motor sure is CLEAN for its age !
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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AllisFreak MN
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Location: Minnesota
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Posted: 28 Jan 2024 at 7:33am |
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Quite a project. I'm enjoying this thread.
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'49 A-C WD, '51 A-C WD, '63 A-C D17 Series III, 1968 A-C One-Seventy, '82 A-C 6060, '75 A-C 7040, A-C #3 sickle mower, 2 A-C 701 wagons, '78 Gleaner M2
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DMiller
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Posted: 28 Jan 2024 at 7:26am |
Nastiness ALSO contended with. Found the source of harness chew ons, cleaned next out of engine valley, where around same amount was sucked up with a Shop Vac. The Dead Varmint was darn near to mummified as been dead so long. Materials were chewed away engine compartment insulation.
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DMiller
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Posted: 28 Jan 2024 at 7:22am |
So Far So Good.
Front Brake hoses on, tubing Connected, old Core Support Mounts cut away removed and frame cleared of loose rust. Rear Frame was painted with tank rehung, PBrake parts installed and rear axle/brake repairs done down to bleeding, Cab is Up, turbo swapped and awaiting other engine parts to ready to reset the cab. Have the new mounts ready for that point. Likely to paint front frame Today.
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DMiller
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Posted: 25 Jan 2024 at 5:03pm |
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99 and 2000 SD Fords only ones to do this. Same calper both sides, brake lines significant difference on both, is a heavy shield goes around the Left one. A True oddity to this model and year.
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fjdrill
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Location: Alabama
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Posted: 25 Jan 2024 at 3:19pm |
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Are you Shure Brake calipers go on front of axle driver side? All 4 SDs of mine are on the back.
Edited by fjdrill - 25 Jan 2024 at 3:35pm
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DMiller
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Posted: 25 Jan 2024 at 2:26pm |
Rear brake assemblies and hubs back together, Brakes still dry and will be that way until cab is set back down. Turbo is here but remaining pieces for that may be into Monday next week to arrive.
Will bag the two rear brake/hub assemblies, then ready to paint rear frame section tomorrow. After paint dries, will set next body mounting brackets and reset fuel tank, possibly install rear shocks and rear wheel park brake cables.
Edited by DMiller - 25 Jan 2024 at 2:27pm
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DMiller
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Posted: 19 Jan 2024 at 9:20am |
All but one PS Hose is here, PS Pump replacement is on and all but gear is drained of old PS Fluid. New Tensioner pulleys on, and all cab mount bolts out clean. Received the Taiwan made replacement Head and front TS Lamps, appear constructed as a Direct OE replacement. Soon as rear brakes are complete down to Bleeding and tires BACK ON, will set up to lift the cab for Turbo remove..
SO Glad kept my OLD automotive tools.
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DMiller
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Posted: 19 Jan 2024 at 9:12am |
So MORE Bushel Baskets of parts!! and have loaded backing plates coming.
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DMiller
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Posted: 19 Jan 2024 at 9:11am |
 Deeper inspections costing me more, think gonna have to work on this with Eyes Closed.
Started removing rear brakes and hubs for P-Brake repairs, pads went to self destruct mode, rotors appear shot, pistons froze SOLID in calipers and as expected Hub Seals leaking. TOUCHED Dust Shield, collapsed into piles of rust dust. OH ME OH MY!! $$$$ Keep Flashing!!
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DMiller
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Posted: 11 Jan 2024 at 3:53pm |
Spoke to a Eastwood rep this afternoon. He noted I picked the better choice for where I am going. Remove any and all loose scale, wash down with a oil/grease remover then paint as can. Base Product, not the Plus or Platinum is the best choice here for working a Moving Target. Has a Neutralizer in the Base, for Salts or Chemical agent corrosive, is also UV Resistant the other two do not even as a bigger premium price. Does NOT require a Top Coat of anything else and should last the remaining life of the machine. Can be used as a Prep Primer or a Final Cover so works well for me. Loose scale is already gone at rear, any residual brake fluid or diff oil has been removed. Will go back over the entire chassis once cab goes up and finish out on forward rails. Product can be Brush, Roller or Spray applied, got a full gallon.
After got up this morning hauled the tires to the tire shop for rim swaps, have the spare to balance and the OLD spare Tire to discard. Went by Sale Yard for the truck bed, install requires Four Points of mounting for the Goose Ball to qualify. Will be reusing the Reese Hitch angle irons to frame, with Angle Irons bolted to them to weld on the new bed. Fore and Aft hangers are strictly for bed stability and will be as rep stated reasonable but minimal. Weld to New Bed rails, Bolt with at least a 1/2" Gr 8 Fastener to Frame is all that is called for at those two points.
Edited by DMiller - 11 Jan 2024 at 3:53pm
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 09 Jan 2024 at 7:00pm |
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Dave... i use the RUST CONVERTER also.... AFTER i needle gun the frame, then pressure wash, then DESALT wash, then rinse.... then CONVERTER.... Let dry and then paint.. I normally just use a Brush Rustoleum and i am doing touchup, no bed/ tank / power train removal.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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WF owner
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Posted: 09 Jan 2024 at 6:27pm |
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A needle scaler does a good prep job.
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DMiller
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Posted: 09 Jan 2024 at 1:07pm |
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Thanks all, sticking to scrape, brush and blow away then to paint once eastwood material gets here. Truck is soon to be 25, know is on borrowed days where only needs to get another three to five and I will start backing down on activities.
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Codger
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Posted: 09 Jan 2024 at 8:21am |
I used "Chassis Saver" products a lot of years in the shops and it works well but has a very limited shelf life once opened, and must be painted over. Phosphoric acid based product yielding good coverage per gallon sprayed easily with conventional hand spray guns.
Abrasive media blasting is always best as a clean substrate is beneficial to start with and will reveal weak spots commonly overlooked.
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A career built on repairing and improving engineering design deficiencies, shortcomings, and failures over 50 years now.
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WF owner
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Posted: 09 Jan 2024 at 6:58am |
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I have used both Eastwood and POR-15 Rust Encapsulator with good results. I also like Rustoleum's Rust Converter in aerosol cans.
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DMiller
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Posted: 09 Jan 2024 at 4:24am |
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The product I have received is a Encapsulator body men use. Has a rust converter in the base that shuts down the process. Has to be oversprayed with a paint product but is noted to neutralize the process of corrosion. Just have to have the large chunky stuff off the surface.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 08 Jan 2024 at 12:46pm |
I have tried to wire brush / clean and repaint the frame of a truck a few times.. Paint always started to rust thru in a couple years ... Several years ago i read an article about a DESALT process... They said it dont matter how many times you WASH the bottom of your truck with pressure washer and soap, there is ALWAYS a salt film left over imbedded into the steel frame. That starts the process of rusting again...... DOT in Wisc ( i think) was experimenting with a process to NEUTRALIZE the salt, after washing the frame with pressure washer... Conclusion was that if you do this, the PAINT will stick much better and LONG TERM the frame will hold up better... I have been using this for about 10 years when i do touchup / paint repairs on the frames... ANYTHING that travels on the highway, has salt IMBEDDED into the steel that needs cleaned prior to paint............. just a suggestion..
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Codger
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Posted: 08 Jan 2024 at 10:55am |
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Snap any torx bits removing the bed bolts?
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A career built on repairing and improving engineering design deficiencies, shortcomings, and failures over 50 years now.
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DMiller
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Posted: 08 Jan 2024 at 10:11am |
Current state, down to a few items to disconnect then go to cab mount bolts.
Will be dropping tank today or tomorrow to replace brake tubing behind it and to ready that section of frame for rust encapsulation paint.
Edited by DMiller - 08 Jan 2024 at 10:11am
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