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WD 45 next? YES!!!

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Sugarmaker View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2018 at 9:07pm
Dave , Folks,
Pulled the 45 in the garage for some much needed updates:)

Removed hood and valve cover to find a lot of gray thick goop. Wiped all this out and fired up the engine. seemed to have good oil flow at the push rods.


The exhaust manifold has a crack across the casting just below the muffler.
I found a good used Vinson manifold in the vast warehouse. Needs some work but not cracked.

Tool box has seen better days and many repairs.

Left side of the radiator housing has been chopped by PO.

Opposite lower corner of the rad shell is not good.

Screen has had its share of damage too.

Battery box is toast

Hood has a dent in the side and several typical issues 

I called Sandy Lake and made a trip down there to pick up some parts to make some repairs. More tomorrow.
Regards,
 Chris

D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2018 at 5:22pm
Folks,
Added new battery box: 

Cleaned up the valve cover, installed new gasket 

Have new tool box to replace the tattered one.
Also have a used grill assembly to work on and hopefully improve that area.  Might break out the hood buck and work on that too.

Added a can of Barrs leak to the rad to see if it might stop the coolant leak somewhere in the engine. Could be the sleeve orings or crack some where? I did check the tightness of the head bolts and that looked good.

Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2018 at 5:26pm
DDid you replace the core plugs in the top of the head while you had the valve cover off?
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2018 at 5:31pm
CTucker,
 I did not replace the soft plugs. I did start the engine and did not see any coolant. Am I missing something?
 Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2018 at 7:56am
AAs a precaution, I would replace all core plugs , anytime I had the cover of, if their age is unknown. They rust thru from the bottom, and you can't tell till a leak starts. They could also look fine till full pressure is built up with the proper radiator cap in place and working temperature is achieved.
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2018 at 1:01pm
CTucker,
 Thanks for the recommendations. I will do d pressure test tomorrow on the coolant system. Grandson Mike is bringing a pressure tester home from his work and will also check for head gasket leaks.

Several other moves to make before then too.

 Found I had a gas leak at the lower support bracket. As usual pretty ugly! Couldn't find my flux for brazing, so went to NAPA and got some coated brazing rod. purged the tank with air and exhaust prior to brazing. Let air blow in tank while brazing too. 
Looks better. Checking for leaks now. 

Have the old cracked exhaust manifold off, and am working on re-tapping the head where a broken head stud remained.
 All other studs came out and will be replaced. This one had been broken for some time.

Wired up the lights with a new toggle, completed battery box and dash installation. Much improved!:)

Talked to Don(MO) today and he gave me some good tips on things to look for also.
We are currently in heavy rinse cycle as the rain is pelting the house. About 4 inches or more in some places since last night. Good day to hunker down and batten the hatches!
More later. Hope things are good in Orange land!
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 2018 at 8:57am
Folks,
Just tring to make the old 45 more respectable. Not trying to do a restoration at this time and maybe never? Poor old tractor sure has been through a lot. Most of yo know what I mean if you have bought a old used tractor in the last 30 years. 

I have replaced the manifold with a good used one. new studs and nuts. New manifold gaskets. New TC exhaust pipe.

Cosmetic stuff like new tool box, new PTO knob.

 Lights are functioning. These are nice to have when at a late night tractor pull, or plowing snow. (Old grill still in place)

Have hammered on the new (used) grill, to get the dents out. Still have rust repair and the mesh to replace someday. But it is a better grill than the tattered one on the tractor now.
Hood had some dents removed and edges straightened.

After pulling it out of the shop and letting it warm up I see I need to replace both the springs in the throttle and hydryulic levers at the quadrant.

Also it seems to be reving to high too soon. I have to figure that out. All linkages seem to be ok, but may need adjustments.

On the list is a new bracket for the alternator, tucking the alt inside the swoosh of the grill extension.

 Oh yea take the seat assembly off and look at the brakes on that side too. At least add the brake return springs. 

Thanks for checking in on me and listening to a old man ramble on and on!:)

(FYI That good tire is a 13.6-28)

Regards,
 Chris




Edited by Sugarmaker - 13 May 2018 at 9:04am
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 2018 at 5:00pm
The good and bad today on the 45:

Had Mike come over and pressure test the coolant system. 



He did not find any leak down issues. But shortly after when we were doing the head gasket test the radiator started leaking! So I guess I will be looking for a shop to fix it or a new radiator in the future.

 While in there I took off the thermostat housing. Yep the reason it was not achieving operating temp! NO thermostat in there.


Also had to braze the gas tank support again. Good practice for me!


Regards,
Chris



D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 May 2018 at 7:35am
Folks,
Seen a pin hole leak on the tank support. This is fighting me every step of the way I guess?:) So it will come off again for another brazing session. Have wing nuts on most of the stuff at this time! Not real happy about that, but such it the life of a guy with a bunch of old tractors.:)

Roughed out a new base bracket for the alternator. Have to Mig it together today if the rain ever stops! This will allow the one wire alternator to set higher and be tucked inside the grill extension. Shorter belt required and alterations to the adjusting bracket. 

With the radiator off the new used grill was trial fit up. 

So I have seen several folks mention troubles with aftermarket radiators. I see some on line, from a low of $180 up to $300+! Some look lie they don't have the side or fan shroud sheet metal. Any suggestions/ recommendations?

Ok I did find a weird one that I will share. May have mentioned before? On the crank pulley the threaded portion of the lock screw is missing. It looks like the point of the lock screw is still in the hole and into the crank. A portion of the threads must still be there as the pulley seems to be turning correctly with the crank.  I have a new (used lock screw) but really not sure how I will extract the broken tip. 
My guess is the PO did not understand how the big lock nut had to be loosened first??? The same type of lock nut for the starter had a large nut welded at a odd angle on to the hex end of the bolt. Very weird stuff!

Regards,
 Chris


Edited by Sugarmaker - 14 May 2018 at 7:38am
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IBWD MIke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 May 2018 at 8:22am
Chris, those lock-nut issues sound like the things I find on my new-to-me tractors! Makes one really scratch his head!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 May 2018 at 12:01pm
Mike,
Folks,

I looked at the crank pulley a little more, with some other eyes too. Looks like the lock screw is just gone, and the pulley spun on the crank then stopped. So I am working on pulling it off. 
Started raining again so that's on hold, but I did get the pulley to move a 1/4 inch. It will come off! 
To get a puller on the crank pulley the shaft for the hand crank had to come out. That has a good bend in it and fought it the whole way out too. I have no clue how someone would bend that rod?

Thanks for checking in on me!

Regards,
Chris

D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Jim Hancock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 May 2018 at 3:02pm
Chris, 
If it's not too late with this note, 
drill a hole at the end of your crack to keep it from expanding as the torch heats the metal. 
Then you can fill in the drill hole easily.
How blessed we are by HIS GRACE!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 May 2018 at 8:50pm
Jim,
Thanks, I will keep that in mind! The braze was around the spot welded bracket. Probably still some dirt and crud under the bracket. which is leaving a pin hole. Will have to check it in the morning!

Folks,
Went to local radiator shop and the owner looked at my old radiator. The more he looked the worse it got, Lots of soldered and epoxy repairs on a recore. It was going to cost as much as a new one or more to fix it.  So I picked up a used radiator , and a new thermostat at Sandy Lake. 


Looks pretty good!

Here is the right side of the grill extension. It was smashed and crumpled. Several well placed hits with some body tools brought it back close to original shape.

This grill has some rust issues on both sides but should be able to be patched, smoothed and saved.

Starting to get the parts to make the tractor complete again. Grill shell sans radiator.

Thanks for checking on me!:)
Regards,
 Chris



D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2018 at 9:57pm
Folks:
I found out how the rod for the hand crank was bent! Seems the steering gear came up and contacted the rod. Yes I need to pull the bottom end off and see about new bearings and seals. I did find my old bearing numbers.


Pulled the crank shaft pulley today and cleaned up the shaft and bore to allow a hand slip fit of the crank pulley onto the stub of the crank shaft. Added the locking screw and jam nut.


Tried the new three piece thermostat and realized there was a shelf missing in the upper housing for the rubber portion of the new thermostat to seal off onto. Proceeded to make a spacer ring to take up the gap and support the thermostat. Time will tell if it works but I dont think i am the first to dream up this repair!:)


Removed both hand levers compression springs behind the quadrant and replaced the springs. These types of little repairs help bring the tractor back to near original performance.


Now If I could remember how the re position all the throttle and governor control rods, maybe I could get it to not rev up when only moving the throttle lever 1 inch. 

Got the custom bracket welded up for the alternator.

Regards,
 Chris


Edited by Sugarmaker - 15 May 2018 at 9:59pm
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Reindeer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2018 at 11:15pm
Just a note on the throttle response.  My new to me D15 did that too.   Found the throttle spring was hooked to push the rod to the governor forward instead of holding back on it.  Moved the spring attachment under the gas tank so it pulls back on the throttle rod, and it works just great.
Simple fix, once I figured it out by looking into the parts book.
                 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2018 at 6:51am
Reindeer,
 Thanks, I will look over the linkage again. I had a similar problem with the other WD's. and they needed linkage adjustments and joint repairs (worn slop). I had to shorten the rod from the govenor arm to the carb on a couple tractors. Just cant remember the procedure. (getting old):)

Found the bearing and seal numbers for the front pedestal repairs in a thread on here:
RMK 172373T BHRM
CR 24932
Timken 355A
Timken 354

Will start to look at the front pedestal in the near future. That could drastically improve the steering. No wonder it was steering so hard before; the gear was jammed up against the hand crank rod.

Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2018 at 7:32am
Folks doing some research on here for the govonor linkage info I found Dr Allis words.
I will check the system like he mentions.
Regards,
 Chris
"Before you do anything, do the following: Engine off, and hand throttle set to wide open. Make sure the governor to carb linkage is free and not rubbing or binding. Also make sure the choke spring is connected to the choke and not the governor throttle plate. There should be no springs connected to the governor/throttle linkage. Remove the cotter pin from the carb link rod just behind the generator. Pull the link rod out of the vertical governor arm. The link rod length should align with the vertical arm hole exactly. Probably the link rod is too long. Bend the link rod to shorten it, so that it will slide back into the arm hole. Re-test your performance."




Edited by Sugarmaker - 16 May 2018 at 7:32pm
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2018 at 8:32pm
Dr. Allis was correct shortening the rod from the governor to the carb corrected the over reving.



Springs replaced for the levers:

Pulled the front pedestal apart and ordered the 2 seals and bearing and race. Not a cheap date but nothing is now days! Parts will be in Friday. Its no wonder it steered hard, The bearing was froze solid. 


Good news is the key and keyway look good. The shaft (1.75 dia) is worn at the bearing area. May need to do some repair work on that.

 Bearing was not functioning, therefore hard to steer!


New 44 inch belt from NAPA for the alternator and mounted the alternator on the new bracket. Looks like it will work fine, and the alternator will miss the grill. Grill slides under the alt support bracket.




Pulled the seat assembly to install new brake hold back springs. Both were broke. Bolt for rear of cover needs to come out. Will need to drill and tap it, Welding to the rusty nub did not work!


May pull off the bent rock shaft (three point) and replace with better used one from my WD parts tractor. Step may get replaced too. With that assembly off the back of the tractor, its a good time to jack it up put in the rear tractor support and remove the tires. Both rear rims need attention around the valve hole. Calcium has rotted away the rim.  Might have to look hard at those new Firestone rear tires!:)
Regards,
 Chris



Edited by Sugarmaker - 16 May 2018 at 8:40pm
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Reindeer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2018 at 4:22pm
Looks like you are making great progress!  Satisfying getting all those  problems tidied up.  Enjoy your photos and commentary!
                 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ray54 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2018 at 8:54pm
Unless your very good at finding center of broken bolt,keep welding and trying it.
I have had some that took 5 or 6 trys. Weld and let it cool till you can put your hand on it then try turning it. I have damaged many treads drilling,but never with heating by welding. Even when broke down into casting a tread or 2. Laying a flat washer and welding it to broken part and then welding a nut to washer adds more heat where you need it most and helps sometime too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2018 at 9:06pm
Clean that broken bolt up with  wire wheel or grinder, lay a washer over, that just fits and BURN it in with a weld. Then weld a nut to the washer and back the bolt out.
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2018 at 9:24pm
Reindeer, 
Thanks! Lots of folks do way better work than I. I just take a bunch of pictures as I go along.

Ray, CTucker
Tried welding the washer and nut on twice. Maybe I did not let it cool enough? Anyway, I drilled out the screw, and retapped, maybe I am lucky. or just getting better at it!:)

Folks,
This vertical steering shaft was worn at the bearing area about .10 inch. I didnt think I could hurt it any more so MIG welded the worn area and hand worked it to be less than .010 undersized. No, not perfect, but should be a lot better than how it was!


The rock shaft and step came off this evening. Allowing me to mount the rear of the tractor on the work stand. This allows me to remove the rear tires and wheels. I see that the bail has been welded on one side. Lots of these got broken at the weak area, near the hole.

The lug nuts were very tight, breaker bar and cheater pipe. All of the eccetrentics came loose, I was very surprised! The rim was very tight on the hub. Had to use the puller to pop the rim off the hub.


The plan is to work on fixing the rear rim rust out areas. Disassemble, sandblast and repair damage if possible. Maybe new rear tires too? The one is pretty good the other not so much! Just have to find the dollars.

Regards,
Chris



Edited by Sugarmaker - 17 May 2018 at 9:26pm
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 May 2018 at 7:08pm
Folks,
Wrestled those loaded rear tires on to the trailer and delivered to local tire shop. Will get the calcium removed, tires unmounted, and then evaluate the rims for possible repairs. New rims are about $450 each!



Humm looks like the seals in the finals should be replaced too. Nothing we havent seen before. 
Thanks for checking on me!
Regards,
 Chris 


Edited by Sugarmaker - 19 May 2018 at 7:09pm
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ted J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 May 2018 at 6:35am
Chris, you do amazing work and your documentation is awesome.  Thanks for all the pics and the details as you go along.  This will make it easier for the rest of us as we follow suit on our own tractors.
THANK YOU!
"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 May 2018 at 8:20am
Ted,
Thanks for the kind words! Never know if I helping or not. Just hoping it might help someone along the way as you mentioned. Lots of areas on these that I dont know much about. Haven't done much engine or drive line work on a old Allis yet!

So I have a question on the rims. I think these are std 12 inch wide? I was thinking of widening the rims during the repair work. Any recommendations? Was seriously considering getting a pair of Firestione 14.9-28's. Not cheap. And that would mean I would have more money into this that you could ever hope to get out of it. Which is not unusual when fixing one of these up!

Still lots of moves to make, and I dont work on this full time. I try to do a few things each day. This is what i did Friday night. Hauled my Uncle Chucks mini-mod to the dirt track. This was only his second race, just bought the car (his first) last fall. At 75 he is enjoying life and getting out side his comfort zone. Came home in one piece, him and the car!


Yesterday I took apart the 8 wheel to rim eccentrics. Was a pleasure not having to fight them. Someone had these apart and greased them in the last 5 years!

I do need several of the wheel stops and bolts that go on the adjusting rails. This tractor did not have any! I like to have them in place for insurance. Have to check in the vast warehouse to see if I have a set. I see Steiner's has a bolt and clip for $25.

Should have the rims back Monday. They may go right to sandblast. That's the best thing I have found. Then you can see all the areas that may need work. Humm wonder if I have a old junk rim to take repair sections out of?? I know both valve steam areas are bad, and will have to be rebuilt.

Its raining hear today, so I may try to get the front pedestal bearings and seals back together.

Hope things are good in orange land!
Regards,
 Chris

D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 May 2018 at 8:24am
Folks,
Forget to mention that the fenders ar now in the perfect position to lay a hammer to! The left side one has been bent down. The reinforcing curved plate under the skin is bent too.
Going to try the port-a-power to push it back up. Then lots of straightening on the lower back corners where they are all mashed up!

FYI: The brazing on the gas tank support bracket worked! Only took the two tries! No leaky gas! Helped having the right flux paste for brazing.

Regards,
Chris


Edited by Sugarmaker - 20 May 2018 at 8:27am
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Ranse View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 May 2018 at 8:12pm
Good job Sugarmaker. I've been following this thread for a while. I've really enjoyed it. It looks like your just trying to fix things that needs to be done. Nothing wrong with that. These old tractors can have so many needs it over whelms me. I need to take a page out of your book and tackle one thing at a time. Keep up the good work.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 May 2018 at 9:47pm
Ranse,
 Thanks! I needed that! This tractor has me in a head lock! Several moves forward a few back too. 
Put the front end back together this afternoon:
Upper seal in place. Tapped in easily with large socket as a pusher.

Bottom shot of the bearing seal and the lower seal in place.

I did weld up one side of the key to take a little slop out of that too. No pics.
Minimal slop in the steering now. Just a little between the screw and gear. Hoping this now steers much better!:)

Added the two roll pins to the hand crank rod. Used a piece of railroad iron on my jack to support the shaft to tap in the pins:


Finally looked at the used radiator. It doesn't have the bottom flange with the nuts, So I plan to add that in the next day or so. 

Straightened up the left fender and tapped out some of the damage. They need taken off and repaired someday.


Here is my constant helper Maggie. She has her ball close by for me to throw when I take a break!

Trying to decide about ripping in to the finals to put in new outer axle seals the left one is leaking. Its the right thing to do, just is another project on the old 45!

Here is a shot of the rims and tires headed for the tire shop last Friday.

While resting I have cut about 1/2 of the flat wood for syrup next year:

Thanks for checking on me. 
Regards,
 Chris 




D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2018 at 7:54am
Wow Chris, You've been busy.
I had to laugh, you just can't get away from those leaky gas tanks! I remember you working on that 17 tank for a long time. You must be getting better with only 2 tries.
 
I wish I had some of your talent for bodywork. You're going to have them fixed up great.
 
I had to cringe when I say the pictures of the roll pin in the hand crank rod. I've had mine in and out 3-4 times and it's always a fight to get it supported and the pins driven in and out!
 
That looks like a nice radiator. Too bad it doesn't have the mounts, but I know you'll get it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2018 at 8:34pm
Dave,
 Good to hear from you! Supporting that hand crank shaft to put in the roll pins really helped install them. 
I haven't plowed since you were here a couple years ago!
Hope things are good! How's that 45 running with the rebuilt engine?
Thanks for checking on me and the old orange tractors in my sand box!:)

Regards,
 Chris


Edited by Sugarmaker - 21 May 2018 at 8:37pm
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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