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Does anybody rebuild D Series Fuel gauges

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coggonobrien View Drop Down
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    Posted: 23 Mar 2017 at 6:38pm
Mine aesthically is in great shape but there is something wrong internally. I know Djs has great accurate gauges but figured if I could rebuild cheaper I would go that way. I'd probably buy parts and do it myself.
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AaronSEIA View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AaronSEIA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Mar 2017 at 6:41pm
What is it doing? Simple gear drive. I'd bet the float has come loose. Mine did that.   Had to pull it out and re crimp the little tabs that hold it on the end of the rod. DJS sells a new float and gasket. Original float was cork and may have dissolved.
AaronSEIA
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSeries4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Mar 2017 at 8:47pm
Agree with Aaron.  Take it out and look it over.  80% of the time the problem will be with the cork float sliding up and down the rod.  Check to see that the gears at the pivot mesh smoothly.  I have also heard of the magnet getting de-energized but have never had that problem on any of mine.
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Mar 2017 at 9:53pm
As Aaron said, it's a simple gear drive. Take it out and if the needle moves when you move the rod up and down then it's probably ok, you just need a new float. I used a cork out of a wine bottle and it didn't work (too small). You need a cork about an inch and a half long and about and inch and a quarter in diameter. That's about the size of the original. DJ's also sells just the float, they look to be plastic to me, but I say they would work fine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2017 at 5:52am
No sense wasting time with a cork float, when a new neoprene float for a Model A Ford works great and costs $4.95. I have one in my D17.
http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2017 at 6:21am
$4.95 ?? ouch !!! I just cut a float in half from a Cavalier that was being scrapped. Now TWO of my D-14s have working gas gauges!
Yup you can call me cheap, frugal, thrifty..... whatever...
but here's some early morning math...
$4.95 US$ is $6.61 CDN
ADD to that 13% TAXES and your 4.95 is my $7.49 !!

Canuck Jay

3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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corbinstein View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote corbinstein Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2017 at 6:23am
Buy it on Ebay, no taxes..... YET! LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimNearFortWorth Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2017 at 8:40am
Use petroleum rated material from a welding supply store for gasket. Easy to cut with heavy shears, seals up great and have one each on diesel and gas done a few years ago, still no leaks.
If memory serves, 10 x 12" "roll" of material cost me about 10-12.00 and I have plenty left for any repairs on other units in-future.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ted J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2017 at 8:50pm
Jay, it's not cheap.......it is FRUGAL....  I know, I am too...  I'd a used marshmallows if they would stand up to fuel.......LOL
"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Ted J View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ted J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2017 at 8:53pm
I had one on my D-17 that when you lifted the arm, the gears worked perfectly, but the gauge would just spin wildly.  Me being ......er um.....frugal, I though I could take it apart to see what was wrong and fix it.  Well long story short.........I fixed it for good.  It'll never work again.  Bought a good one from Rick.
"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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SteveM C/IL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2017 at 8:54pm
Paint em with shellac Ted.
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Ted J View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ted J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2017 at 10:15pm
No Steve, it wasn't a problem with the float.  It was that the needle would just spin where ever it wanted to go.  I'm guessing it was a problem with the magnet?
Well, when I was taking it apart, you know how things go..........one LITTLE piece went SOMEPLACE in the shop, in the proximity of the drill press.  You ever seen a clean floor around a drill press? Cry   And THAT is how it got fixed for good..... LOL
"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote coggonobrien Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Mar 2017 at 1:13pm
I will have to double check mine but If I recall correctly I can raise and lower the float arm and the needle does not move.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Travis2766 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Mar 2017 at 10:02pm
Any tips on how to get the gauge off with out breaking the screws?
190XT Series III, D17 Series IV, D15 Series II, All Crop 66 and a whole mess of equipment.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimNearFortWorth Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Mar 2017 at 6:22am
Used a large long handled screwdriver with four sided shaft on last one I did.
Soak, soak, soak with your favorite juice down behind the gauge may help also. With a Crescent wrench on the long handled screwdriver (through the steering wheel), stand on the platform so you can try downward force to keep from jumping out of the slots on the fasteners.
Some can be a bear to get out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Mar 2017 at 6:43am
These screws are a fine thread so be careful, have PATIENCE...

Use a TIGHT fitting screwdriver ! That worked for 3 of them for me, the 4th I used a new ,tight bit in a 1/4" rachet, that way bit was square and firm in the slot.

 1st thing to do, TIGHTEN the screw ,just a tad
2nd, try unscrewing it
If ANY resistance is felt( getting snug..)  repeat 1,2,1,2,1,2 until it comes out.
Yes it'll take some time BUT it'll come out in the end
 I'm 4 for 4, 16 screws out....must have done something right , cause I am NOT that lucky !!

Jay

3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Clay View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Clay Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Mar 2017 at 8:04am
I'm with Jay.  His method works. This method works well on corrodes screws on aircraft also.   However, I uses a battery operated auto-hammer.
With the help of an assistant:
 1/4" box end wrench
Long, common (flat blade) screw driver tip [the kind which can be chucked into a drill motor]
Battery operated auto-hammer.  
Insert the screw driver blade into the screw slot.
Using the 1/4" box end wrench, apply pressure to the hex on the screw driver.  Have the assistant apply the auto-hammer to the end of the screw driver shaft.
This method works well on corroded screws on aircraft also.

Note: I have a Ryobi but the Craftsman NEXTEC Hammerhead Auto-Hammer is just as good, if not slightly better.



Edited by Clay - 28 Mar 2017 at 8:12am
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Ted J View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ted J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Mar 2017 at 8:12am
I agree with Jay.  TIGHTEN the screw (just slightly-get it to move) or bolt of anything you want to take out.  I have done this on any bolts or nuts or machine screws I want to get out.  You are using GOOD threads to get it in motion.  If you try to spin them out, there is usually some rust or gunk on the threads that are sticking out and this is what breaks them off.
"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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