WD45 rebuild progress

Flywheel Timing
I got the engine back from the painters and finally got a little time to start working on it again. Boy does that guy make a nice paint job!

I needed to mark the flywheel for 25 degrees BTDC for the high compression pistons instead of the 30 degree WD45 30 degrees. I actually chose to mark at 23 degrees. There was a service bulletin once that stated to retard timing to 23 degrees is you had detonation issues. I chose to just start there.

I downloaded a printable timing wheel and printed it out to 11.75" to match the flywheel. I taped it to a piece of cardboard and laid it out on the flywheel.


I took a chisel and marked 23 degrees. I did this on both sided of the flywheel because I wasn't sure which was TDC and which was 180 degrees off and BTDC. I'll have to figure that out after I get the pushrods and rocker arm installed.

Well, It been almost 2 months ago since I did this work, but I'll post an update.

Looking good. All my parts are still at machine shop and the price is still rising. Hope to have it together and running in about two weeks.
Where did you print that wheel from?

Edited by 79fordblake - 14 Dec 2016 at 7:27pm

It’s nice to be making a little progress again. It was beautiful here last weekend and made tinkering fun again.

Rocker Arm
I started off by hitting all the head studs again with the torque wrench. I was happy to find that after 3 months, none of the nuts budged. Nothing stretching so far.

I carefully seated each pushrod into the tappet and placed the pushrods in the same position they were in when I removed them. I put the rocker arm assembly in place and since there was no torque spec for it I torqued it to 25lbs. I put the oil baffle on and a job well done.
Using a feeler gauge I tightened the valves until a felt a slight drag at .015 Cold. The book says .013 warm. The consensus is that it better to have these valves a little loose rather than a little tight and burn a valve. I have to agree with that. I didn’t spend a terrible amount of time making sure they were perfect because after a couple heat cycles, I’ll have to pull the arm off again to retorque the head anyway.

The radius on the rocker arms was a little wore, but not too bad. I was going to have them reground anyway, but none of the local shops had the tools to regrind them anymore.

I’m a little bothered because not all of the rockers line up exactly on each valve. Some of them are right on the valve stem edge. I thought about pulling all the rockers off and pressing them a little one way or the other on the bushing to line them up, but it’s ran this way for 60 years, so I’m not messing with it. I was also worried about changing the wear spot without having them re-radiused.

hmm, I never knew that. I just figured someone was a little sloppy on setup. I could see how catching the corner of the radius would rotate the valve a little. The exhaust valves have roto-caps on them.

Dave thanks for the update! engine is looking real good! Did you sell your spare engine parts?
Regards,
 Chris

Manifold Studs
I purchased a manifold stud kit with brass nuts from a vendor on this site (who will remain nameless).I screwed in all of the studs and test fit the manifold only to realize that the studs are incorrect. The threads should be about 5/8” on one end and ¾” on the other, but these are just generic automotive studs with about 1 1/2 “ on each end. They would work, but I’d have to play around to get the correct amount threaded into the block. I didn’t try to return them because I purchased them over a year ago, but I did call the vendor and tell them know they were incorrect. They said they were aware, but unable to get studs with the correct threads.

I like the correct studs that bottom into the head. Then I know I have a good tight stud that won’t turn or leak. I know that Steiner’s sells the correct studs because I‘ve bought some there before and they look correct in the pictures. The correct studs are coming in the mail.

Re-check manifold nut torque every morning when cold until they quit moving. These modern day non-asbestos gaskets aren't nearly as good as the old originals.

Dave,
 Good progress on the 45 engine! Those oil covers never get taken off on one of these engines, so I guess they can be stuck pretty tight. Looks like a new one! I used masking tape to hold those pesky gaskets in place then pulled it off when down close to the head.
Regards,
 Chris

Oil Lines
Almost all of the oil lines have to be made new or reworked for the full flow conversion. I only reused the original D17 line that goes from the enlarged port in the block to the filter base. Make sure you get your lines plumbed correctly to the filter base so you don’t run oil backwards through the filter.

I was able to use the original D17 line and fittings going from the base to the block. I did have a little trouble because turning the 90 degree fitting into the block, it would hit the block protrusion where the relief valve is located. I haven’t heard of any other who did this conversion have that trouble, so maybe my whole or block is just a hair different. I was able to grind a little off the fitting to make it work. I’m not thrilled because now the brass compression fitting nut only has about 3 threads left to bite to. Hopefully it will tighten and seal up without stripping the threads.

For the 3/8” line going from the filter base to the old relief valve plug, I used a 3/8” x 12” piece of brake line. I bought a 90 degree ¼ NPT to 3/8” tube compression fitting to thread into the relief plug. For the filter base end I bought a 45 degree 1/4NPT to 3/8” double flare tube fitting. You could use a compression fitting here if you wanted, but I just decided to use the flare that was already on the line. I was careful to bend the line so it wouldn’t rub against the return line. I cut about 3” off the block/compression fitting side of the line to get it the perfect length. It took a couple tries of cutting off about 1/8 to get just the right length

I used 3/16 brake line for the oil line going from the filter base to the head and then over to the governor cover. I bought a 90 degree 1/8” NPT to 3/16” compression fitting for the base and a 90 degree 1/8” NPT street elbow to thread into the block. I reused one of the original “T” fitting and threaded it into the elbow. I also reused the original fitting in the governor cover. With the street elbow I was able to keep the lines out of the way of the spark plugs without making extra loops in the lines.

Have you tried installing the steering shaft?

Dave,
 Maybe I missed it where is the nut on the 90 on the lower line??
Nice clean installation! Thanks for the update! looking real good!
Regards,
 Chris

Chris, I was that too, but figured he was just testing the fit.  I noticed the other tube too.  Doesn't look like it has the compression ring and nut on it either.  I even thought that maybe he soldiered it in there.....

Carb and Air Cleaner
Got the Carb and air cleaner on.

I now have a retaining ring inside the air cleaner to hold the baffle in place thanks to Laddy Benes (Orange Knight)

Everything is pretty straight forward except it ALWAYS takes me about 20 to get that sinking fuel in place. Takes me forever to get it turned and routed just right between the carb and sediment bowl.
The next longest part is getting all the linkage and all those tiny cotter keys in place.

I adjusted the linkage per the service manual. I can’t remember for sure, but something like, slide the throttle lever all the way up, then pull back the linkage from the governor and tighten the set screw on the right side and below the gas tank.

While hooking up the throttle linkage, I realized that I had a bracket spun upside down on the distributor side of the motor. Fixing that caused the throttle shaft and my new oil line from the oil filter base to the head to rub. I had to make a new oil line for that. I’ll post updates pics later.

I screwed the power jet screw all the way in, then out 1 ¼ turn for initial startup like the user manual said.





Edited by Allis dave - 20 Mar 2017 at 12:07pm

I had to turn my load needle out quite a few turns after the overhaul and D17 pistons.