Custom Allis B

As far as going to electronic ignition goes, I still think there's something wrong with the fuel side of things.  I put some "mechanic in a can" (Berryman's B12 Chemtool) in the gas tank to see if that will make any difference.  Figure it can't hurt.  Just can't get past how that one cylinder is leaner than the rest.  It runs well enough like this that I can get this tank of gas through it without fouling plugs.  Who knows maybe it'll clear up?  If it doesn't will probably end up swapping out the manifold to see what that does.

Jim

  In my CA & D10 pulling tractors which ran on E85 I had 190 degree thermostats and only had 2 blade fans. They needed to be warmed up to running temperature and would never overheat, even with multiple back to back pulls to get the sled set.   

  Either type thermostat housing (Cast Iron or Aluminum) will bolt right in if you have the bypass plug in your waterpump. If you don't have the plug, the cast iron housing works fine. For either type a 180 or higher thermostat is available (if you can find a knowledgeable parts person) Just call Sandy Lake Implement and they can fix you up. 

  With a good thermostat, shutters are not needed.  I have 2 NOS canvas curtains that were used on the very early Bs.  

Don't think that I mentioned it earlier, but I also reduced the wheelbase when I lowered the tractor.  Here's an in-process picture from when I was working on it and before adding rear bracing.

I know the picture isn't the best, but you can kind of see that the axle is mounted behind the pivot point.  The kingpins are also centered on the rear of the axle.  That shortened the wheelbase by about 4 1/2".  I think I'm at maybe just a little over 60" now.

Jim

In fact, i normally cut 6 inches off ALL of the steering shafts on the B and gives me more room to get ON and OFF ... and i dont like the steering wheel stuck in my chest..

Have the battery mounted on the side there.  Did that early on as knew that I wouldn't be using any front implements once this tractor was lowered.  Turns out there's almost enough room under the gas tank now with the steering changed up, but like I said--no reason to change it now.

Yes, shortened the original steering shaft and made a new top for it.  It is quite a lot shorter than stock.  You can see the gas tank mount there as well.

The original steering tube just fits inside of the new steering column.  I know it's a little overbuilt, but at the time was still sorting out what I was going to do for a throttle, and thought I might possibly mount it, or possibly other things as well, on there.

I just cut the original shaft off and welded this bit on top.  That ball bearing is slip fit inside of the steering column from the bottom.  Have had it on and off several times now in the course of rebuilding the steering box, doing the electrical, etc.

Jim